Here I go again

[Dvast8]

I am gonna try this one more time......
After 5 years of sitting in the garage, I am dustuing off the truck this weekend,drain the fluids, put a little mystery oil in the cylinders and see if she will start. If so shes heading to the shop to be tuned on the dyno. I parked the truck several years ago after many disgusting attempts to get her leaned out.

I hope next week I have good news. If not the motors coming out and the charger is coming off !

[hskr]

What are you using to tune with?

[Dvast8]

I have a Flashed PCM from KRC.

[hskr]

Ahh, you should get a SCT programmer

[Dvast8]

Yeah that's what I'm reading. It's been several years since I have messed with this thing. And I'm sure technology has advanced greatly since 2000. Can you give me some details of how it works?

[hskr]

SCT is a hand held programmer. You need someone to write tunes for you based on your mods and dyno charts with a/f or data logs. Order from Sean hemifever@aol.com Under $400 for the hand held programmer and unlimited adjustments to your tune. Just send him a list of your mods and if you do run on the dyno, get the a/f radings along with it and send that to him as well. He will load a tune on the hand held and send it to you. You upload the tune through your OBDII port. Then if you ever want to or need to make changes to the tune email Sean and he will make the adjustments and email a file back to you. You put the file onto the hald held programmer from your computer, then install it onto the truck.

[Lewd Crude and Tattooed]

Yeah that's what I'm reading. It's been several years since I have messed with this thing. And I'm sure technology has advanced greatly since 2000. Can you give me some details of how it works?

Email hemifever@aol.com, his name is Sean and he sells and programs SCT for dakota's and other mopars. I have one of his tunes and like others I am happy with it. I have the unlimited version as I have changed tunes 3 times already and plan on changing a few more time. Or look at performance injection equipment on the internet, from what I hear Chris is also very good a tuning dakota's with SCT.

I see your not far, I'm up in Denver, NC.

[Lewd Crude and Tattooed]

SCT is a hand held programmer. You need someone to write tunes for you based on your mods and dyno charts with a/f or data logs. Order from Sean hemifever@aol.com Under $400 for the hand held programmer and unlimited adjustments to your tune. Just send him a list of your mods and if you do run on the dyno, get the a/f radings along with it and send that to him as well. He will load a tune on the hand held and send it to you. You upload the tune through your OBDII port. Then if you ever want to or need to make changes to the tune email Sean and he will make the adjustments and email a file back to you. You put the file onto the hald held programmer from your computer, then install it onto the truck.

Exactly! Very easy and a great mod that can keep being changed as you swipe the credit card and add more parts.

[Lewd Crude and Tattooed]

One more thing, Where is the pictures of said R/T?

[Dvast8]

Thanks for the help! I will definitely look into that. I really appreciate the helpful input.

[Dvast8]

I will post some pics as soon as I get the junk off the truck and dragged outside. Ive had the truck since new. Been to the Rock once with it back years ago. With a bunch of other Dakotas for mopars at the rock.

[Dvast8]

I will post some pics as soon as I get the junk off the truck and dragged outside. Ive had the truck since new. Been to the Rock once with it back years ago. With a bunch of other Dakotas for mopars at the rock.

[wyotech_cuda440]

Sending hemifever the data from a dyno is good, but being able to tune and tweak while still on the dyno is better. Call up your dyno shop to see if they have the software to write sct tunes for dodges. If they can, great, buy a blank tuner and have them tune everything.

If they dont have the right software, you can buy the pro racer package (PRP) and load the software into a laptop so you can write your own tunes- take the laptop to the dyno with you and pay them to write the tune for you.

Email tuning from a datalogger works pretty good, email tunes with data from a dyno is a little better, but if youre already on the dyno it's best to tune while you're there.

Also, if your shop won't write tunes for you, see if hemifever will set up a time to get on the phone and email while you're on the dyno, so you can tweak the tune while you're still there.

[hskr]

Sending hemifever the data from a dyno is good, but being able to tune and tweak while still on the dyno is better. Call up your dyno shop to see if they have the software to write sct tunes for dodges. If they can, great, buy a blank tuner and have them tune everything.

If they dont have the right software, you can buy the pro racer package (PRP) and load the software into a laptop so you can write your own tunes- take the laptop to the dyno with you and pay them to write the tune for you.

Email tuning from a datalogger works pretty good, email tunes with data from a dyno is a little better, but if youre already on the dyno it's best to tune while you're there.

Also, if your shop won't write tunes for you, see if hemifever will set up a time to get on the phone and email while you're on the dyno, so you can tweak the tune while you're still there.
Problem with the PRP is unless you get some sort of training on how to use it and what options do what when you change them, you can seriously screw up the tune and damage your motor.

[bad360rt]

Glad to hear you're bringing the old girl out of retirement. What's the rest of your setup? Hopefully Sean can get you squared away with a good tune. :biggthumpup:

[Lewd Crude and Tattooed]

Sending hemifever the data from a dyno is good, but being able to tune and tweak while still on the dyno is better. Call up your dyno shop to see if they have the software to write sct tunes for dodges. If they can, great, buy a blank tuner and have them tune everything.

If they dont have the right software, you can buy the pro racer package (PRP) and load the software into a laptop so you can write your own tunes- take the laptop to the dyno with you and pay them to write the tune for you.

Email tuning from a datalogger works pretty good, email tunes with data from a dyno is a little better, but if youre already on the dyno it's best to tune while you're there.

Also, if your shop won't write tunes for you, see if hemifever will set up a time to get on the phone and email while you're on the dyno, so you can tweak the tune while you're still there.

Sean is 3hrs from dvast8 and I. I am going to see if he will meet at a dyno near him. Maybe he can tune both at the same time.

[wyotech_cuda440]

Problem with the PRP is unless you get some sort of training on how to use it and what options do what when you change them, you can seriously screw up the tune and damage your motor.

That's why I said to buy the software and have the shop tune it. If its a professional shop, they should know what theyre doing, but not many shops like to pak the 10k or whatever its costs for the sct license. This way, you buy the software instead of them, but they still do the tuning.

Sean is 3hrs from dvast8 and I. I am going to see if he will meet at a dyno near him. Maybe he can tune both at the same time.

That's an even better option, I hope he's willing to met up with you guys. :biggthumpup:

[huskerrt79]

Sean would probably meat him at a dyno. What is the rest of your set up?

[JMSoc02]

Sean is 3hrs from dvast8 and I. I am going to see if he will meet at a dyno near him. Maybe he can tune both at the same time.

If you get that going, I would be down for a dyno day with him. I would need to buy one from him, but if you get a date set for that, let me know.
~James

[Dvast8]

Ok guys I got the dak dusted off. Not getting any fire so I ordered new coil. Got power in no power out. I will update as soon as I have more info.

[Intense RT]

Problem with the PRP is unless you get some sort of training on how to use it and what options do what when you change them, you can seriously screw up the tune and damage your motor.You'd have to be a serious bonehead honestly. Being able to use a calculator for fuel value adjustments, do some reading on ignition advance curves or even a centrifugal advance distributor from old carb engine experience would be enough to get started. No magic here as far as those two. Some other things can be hard to comprehend as sometimes there is little to no description as to what value changes, higher or lower, will do. I keep every informative email Sean sends and it comes in handy. Even put two emails together and figure something out when he may not come out and give all the info I need at once.

No reason to be scared of it. This "guru" mystique around the tuning in the prp is unjustified.

[hskr]

You'd have to be a serious bonehead honestly. Being able to use a calculator for fuel value adjustments, do some reading on ignition advance curves or even a centrifugal advance distributor from old carb engine experience would be enough to get started. No magic here as far as those two. Some other things can be hard to comprehend as sometimes there is little to no description as to what value changes, higher or lower, will do. I keep every informative email Sean sends and it comes in handy. Even put two emails together and figure something out when he may not come out and give all the info I need at once.

No reason to be scared of it. This "guru" mystique around the tuning in the prp is unjustified.
The highlighted portion of your reply is really all I have heard about the PRP and why most shy away from it. No real documentiation or insturctions as to what things are when you are adjusting.

[Intense RT]

The highlighted portion of your reply is really all I have heard about the PRP and why most shy away from it. No real documentiation or insturctions as to what things are when you are adjusting.I'd have to show you. Then you would smack your head.
Trying to think of things that are less common knowledge changes off the top of my head. N/V ratio for tire height change...crank fuel primeshot may need some tweaking on some combos, I haven't with my mild setup. Open loop tuning requires a zero value instead of a 1 value to turn off in one of the table. Can't recall without looking. Easy to find though. Then I know that Sean is known to adjust the IAC pintle position to help in higher duration cam engines. I'd have to experiment with small changes at a time to figure that out on my own. Might not need to if the lsa was no lower than 114. May just need to adjust the fuel w/o egr table (base pulsewidth table).

Main things for NA tuning would be needing to rescale range of rpm operation in the rpm normalizer scalar, base fuel pulsewidth at a certain manifold pressure (torr instead of kpa for us. I just use a quick reference conversion table I made to translate from the LM2 to the prp software) and rpm...

Power enrichment, WOT, even has a description below it. This is one of the few with a description of what it does. Gives rpm and fuel enrichment multiplier. Just say you are at 12.5 and you wish to try 12.8 afr so 12.5/12.8 = .9765...so you multiply the current value in that rpm cell by .9765. (removing fuel of course)

As far as spark, just looking at manifold pressure and rpm in the prp. Main thing you are concerned about is WOT so that would be approx 750 Torr. That's the column you make the curve in. Just do some reading on conventional distributor curves to get a starting point. Could make a linear advance curve not going past 34 in any case and all in by 2700 and that would be a conservative curve. The more cam, the quicker the timing should come in starting with more initial. 230ish at .050 cam may be around 14 initial to clean up idle. Can use this spark table as a starting point. http://www.dakotart.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15251&highlight=timing&page=2 This one Five9Dak posted.

I'm actually running this one for now to be conservative. The curve is aggressive though. I will be bumping it all over about 2 degrees to see how it responds after...I get my fuel sufficiently rich to start the tuning process. When on the rich side, adjust timing first, then fuel next. From there it's very small changes and a balancing act to determine performance results from changes.

Adjust spark first but start "Fat" and "Retarded".