it runs again

[Sick 660r]

Started right up and idled around 14.5 a/f. Oil pressue is around 30 when warm and 60 at 2k. Brand new t-stat won't open and I need to replace the belt but everything else seems great. Still have a good bit of work to do before I can tune it. This is the crate motor that I rebuilt from the gen II.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd274/jmonar5695/video/th_001.jpg (http://s226.photobucket.com/albums/dd274/jmonar5695/video/?action=view&current=001.mp4)

[grapejuice1998]

That's pretty awesome that you get to work on your shit right next to the swimming pool.

[jj malone]

Just don't accidently kick any tools in.

[mikset]

Sounds good!

Someone's bound to ask so I will...what cam are you running?

[superbee5.9]

Sounds awesome:rockwoot:

[BillMopar]

thats just too badass man nice to she her running again

[White Turbo]

What's your idle speed ?

Sounds lumpy at that idle :biggthumpup:

[RTchas]

Is that the new Carbon-Invisalbe driveshaft your running?:jester:

[Sick 660r]

Idle is around 600-700. I don't know what the cam specs are but its the stock cam form the 380hp 360 crate motor.

We normally keep the cover on when I work on the truck so nothing falls in plus it heats the pool. Putting a garage up behind the trees this fall.

I have the replace the rear trans seal so thats why the driveshafts not in yet. I have a lot of work to do for the sc piping.

[2k1AmberR/T]

What are you doing with the pcv/breather on this engine?

[Sick 660r]

What are you doing with the pcv/breather on this engine?

crankcase evac. Same as last time.

[70Cuda383]

that's the stock 380 hp crate motor cam? nice. I've got one from hughes that's very close to that cam, similar duration, a tad more lift, and slightly tighter LSA, the idle ought to be VERY lumpy, yet make good power up to 5500-6000 rpm.

...not a high RPM screamer by any means, but good enough to play around with and not worry about the clutch blowing up

[Sick 660r]

that's the stock 380 hp crate motor cam? nice. I've got one from hughes that's very close to that cam, similar duration, a tad more lift, and slightly tighter LSA, the idle ought to be VERY lumpy, yet make good power up to 5500-6000 rpm.

...not a high RPM screamer by any means, but good enough to play around with and not worry about the clutch blowing up

Yes its the 380hp. Just got done reading your thread on moparts. Seems like the cam specs are 230°/234° Duration @ .050") 0.501"/0.513" Lift. I wanted somthing mild that I could drive more often. Kept the sc for a little more umph lol I ended up replacing the carb 4bbl m1 with a efi 2bbl that I had laying around, shouldn't really make a difference with boost tho.

[y2krtaf]

I like it man!
Sounds grumpy!

[70Cuda383]

Yes its the 380hp. Just got done reading your thread on moparts. Seems like the cam specs are 230°/234° Duration @ .050") 0.501"/0.513" Lift. I wanted somthing mild that I could drive more often. Kept the sc for a little more umph lol I ended up replacing the carb 4bbl m1 with a efi 2bbl that I had laying around, shouldn't really make a difference with boost tho.


yup. I'm running the hughes "whiplash" cam. or, as some may call it..."poser cam" cause it's supposed to idle like a top fueler, but run like a mild cam with lots of low end torque.

the 106 LSA has me a bit nervous, since it's a bit tight, and the cam was designed for a carb application, but Sean says he thinks we can make it work.

I hope I'm not doing a cam change 3 months after I put the motor in!:jester:

[WeezyRT]

Glad to see its up and running again.

Not sure if I missed it or not but.. how much boost you planning to run on this motor?

[Sick 660r]

Glad to see its up and running again.

Not sure if I missed it or not but.. how much boost you planning to run on this motor?

goal is 8-10psi. I was going to get a larger sc pulley but I'm going to be a cheap ass and make a restrictor for the intake pipe.

[5.9 R/T]

Sounds good! I like it!
I think you'll have to get a new set of M&H too lol

[Sick 660r]

Sounds good! I like it!
I think you'll have to get a new set of M&H too lol

Thats my second set of DR's in less then 3k miles and I tried being easy on them.

[Five9Dak]

goal is 8-10psi. I was going to get a larger sc pulley but I'm going to be a cheap ass and make a restrictor for the intake pipe.

Just be aware this will raise intake temperatures compared to doing it "the right way." So if the goal of lowering boost is to keep detonation at bay on pump gas, 10psi from a high impeller speed with a restrictor might not cut it.

[Sick 660r]

Just be aware this will raise intake temperatures compared to doing it "the right way." So if the goal of lowering boost is to keep detonation at bay on pump gas, 10psi from a high impeller speed with a restrictor might not cut it.

yeah I've been thinking about that plust the 108 LSA:(

[Black98R/T]

that thing is mean sounding!
cool stuff

[Sick 660r]

I have a bad knock within the bellhousing. I know for a fact its not from the engine and that would pretty much eliminate the pilot bearing. The knock has no rythym what so ever. I dont think its coming from the flywheel or clutch. Engaging the clutch does nothing. Im starting to think it will relate to the uneven pressure plate fingers which mcleod said would not be a problem. Unless you guys have some suggestions then I'm going to start pulling the trans tomorrow.

[GrimRT]

Got a video that captures the noise?

[Sick 660r]

Ill post one in a minute

[Sick 660r]

I think it could be the clutch disk and yes I know im missing a bolt.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5orBPE_ZCw

[GrimRT]

When you put the bellhousing on the new block did you dial it in? If you just slightly step on the clutch pedal (just rest your foot on it) does it go away?

[Sick 660r]

When you put the bellhousing on the new block did you dial it in? If you just slightly step on the clutch pedal (just rest your foot on it) does it go away?

Are you talking about the run out? I got this one down to .002". I applied the clutch pedal very slowly and could not get it to go away. I didn't exactly rest my foot on it but I'll give it a try tomorrow. If it does what would that tell me?

[GrimRT]

Yeah runout. Are you using the McLeod bearing with the aluminum sPacers and is this a single disc or dual? I can't recall. Sounds to me like the bearing is out of adjustment but it is hard to tell.

[Sick 660r]

Im using the throw out bearing from keisler with the single disk setup.

[GrimRT]

My bet is the throw out bearing. I doubt it's the clutch itself but it could be. Whatever it turns out to be it needs to come apart and that sucks.

[mtlcafan79]

If it was a factory bearing I'd point fingers at that. I never had one go more than 1k without making noise. Goes away with pedal pressure though.

[Sick 660r]

bad pilot bearing. I ran the truck with just the bellhousing, clutch and pressure plate on and the noise is gone. I had some trouble getting the trans in and must have damaged the pilot bearing.

[Sick 660r]

well I pulled the bellhousing off and the throw out bearing fell into pieces. Took a better look at the pilot bearing and its fine. Not sure why the noise went away when I pulled the trans out. Keisler has the same one for $125. I don't like buying their stuff but the mcleod one is almost $500 and i would have to fab new lines, spacers etc and I really don't feel like going through all that trouble.

[GrimRT]

well I pulled the bellhousing off and the throw out bearing fell into pieces. Took a better look at the pilot bearing and its fine. Not sure why the noise went away when I pulled the trans out. Keisler has the same one for $125. I don't like buying their stuff but the mcleod one is almost $500 and i would have to fab new lines, spacers etc and I really don't feel like going through all that trouble.

I have a new one here for a Tko kit. If it's the same and you want it let me know.

[Sick 660r]

I have a new one here for a Tko kit. If it's the same and you want it let me know.

Im going to try and convince them that it should be under warranty on monday. If not then I will buy yours if its the right one. Can you post a picture?

[GrimRT]

Im going to try and convince them that it should be under warranty on monday. If not then I will buy yours if its the right one. Can you post a picture?

I'm out of town for a week but if you can wait until then I'll send you some pics.

[Sick 660r]

Found a piece of the throw out bearing in the pressure plate so that was the cause of the noise.

Grim is this what yours looks like and how much do you want for it?
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd274/jmonar5695/IMG_5193.jpg[/QUOTE]

[6speedrt]

Found a piece of the throw out bearing in the pressure plate so that was the cause of the noise.

Grim is this what yours looks like and how much do you want for it?
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd274/jmonar5695/IMG_5193.jpg[/QUOTE]

That's the exact one I have. Off topic question though, how the hell do you bleed that thing? I gave up and machined a bleeder valve into it. That worked very well, very easy to bleed. Unless it is bent or torn up, it is easy to take those apart and rebuild them.

[GrimRT]

That's the exact one I have. Off topic question though, how the hell do you bleed that thing? I gave up and machined a bleeder valve into it. That worked very well, very easy to bleed. Unless it is bent or torn up, it is easy to take those apart and rebuild them.[/QUOTE]

You have to bench bleed the cylinder then pump the pedal to release the rest of the air. It does not work very well.

[GrimRT]

Found a piece of the throw out bearing in the pressure plate so that was the cause of the noise.

Grim is this what yours looks like and how much do you want for it?
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd274/jmonar5695/IMG_5193.jpg[/QUOTE]

Looks just like that one. Make me a reasonable offer. I would call Keisler to just make sure they are the same though, I wouldnt want you to get this one and have it not work.

[6speedrt]

You have to bench bleed the cylinder then pump the pedal to release the rest of the air. It does not work very well.[/QUOTE]

Tell me about it, I tried everything, wasn't much happy about it. Probably also had to do with a failed master though, it started leaking halfway through it. After installing the bleeder, it was cake. That clutch has never worked as well as it does now.

[Sick 660r]

You have to bench bleed the cylinder then pump the pedal to release the rest of the air. It does not work very well.

Tell me about it, I tried everything, wasn't much happy about it. Probably also had to do with a failed master though, it started leaking halfway through it. After installing the bleeder, it was cake. That clutch has never worked as well as it does now.[/QUOTE]

what bleeder did you install?

[6speedrt]

Tell me about it, I tried everything, wasn't much happy about it. Probably also had to do with a failed master though, it started leaking halfway through it. After installing the bleeder, it was cake. That clutch has never worked as well as it does now.

what bleeder did you install?[/QUOTE]

I made it out of old aerospace parts. Friend of mine and I took the bearing off and machined a flat into the top near the fluid line. Drilled a hole, then tapped it to fit a fitting that went to a hard line. Ran the line out the same hole as the fluid line and then adapted an Earls speed bleeder on it. Worked real well and very easy to bleed. When it comes time to replace the clutch, I think I am going to just buy a quality piece and be done with it though.

[Sick 660r]

what bleeder did you install?

I made it out of old aerospace parts. Friend of mine and I took the bearing off and machined a flat into the top near the fluid line. Drilled a hole, then tapped it to fit a fitting that went to a hard line. Ran the line out the same hole as the fluid line and then adapted an Earls speed bleeder on it. Worked real well and very easy to bleed. When it comes time to replace the clutch, I think I am going to just buy a quality piece and be done with it though.[/QUOTE]

Good idea!

Talked to keisler and the only possible difference is the bolt pattern...

[bfranzel]

i like the lope! what size cam is that?

[jj malone]

Sounds good but sounds definatelytoo tight for boost

[Sick 660r]

i like the lope! what size cam is that?
post 13
Sounds good but sounds definatelytoo tight for boost

Don't really care about max performance. This is thrown together with parts I have laying around. Just want to get it on the road and be able to drive it all the time.

[bfranzel]

post 13


Don't really care about max performance. This is thrown together with parts I have laying around. Just want to get it on the road and be able to drive it all the time.

yea i was wondering about the lsa also but thats enough info. thanks

[Sick 660r]

yea i was wondering about the lsa also but thats enough info. thanks

its a 108 LSA.

[Sick 660r]

Trans is fucked. Replaced the throw out bearing and everything looked good. Now its got a loud clunking coming from in the trans and it goes away when I press the clutch pedal. I post a video in a few minutes. Im open to ideas before I pull it again.

[Sick 660r]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l3VWeUT5lvM

[2k1AmberR/T]

Wow. That sucks. Sounds like it sucks anyway...

[Last_in]

Ouch!

[Sick 660r]

think it may just be the fact that I have no load on the trans. Im going to drive it tomorrow and see how it is.

[Last_in]

Don't run it on the stands through the gears. Don't ask Tom or I how we know. :jester:

[Sick 660r]

drove the truck and everthing seems fine and the trans shifts better then ever. I did a little research and the t56 is known to sound like a "box of rocks" while at idle in neutral. I can hear it now but never could before because of the lifters. Im going to leave everything as is. Talked to a local mustang shop and they said a rebuild costs about 2400. I can get the t56 magnum for 3k.

[70Cuda383]

it sounded really loud in your video, but if that's just the crappy mikes that camcorders have doing odd things with the audio maybe it's not as loud as it sounds?

if you had solid lifters that were making noise preventing you from hearing it before, then you might be fine. lifters aren't that loud.

but I will say, Patrick's transmission didn't make any noises that we could hear, and his 318 is still stock with a pretty quiet exhaust.

and yea...don't run it on jack stands!!! especially if it's fresh!

when he bought the truck, the slider on the 5/6 fork was making some noise, sounded like bearings rolling around in a coffee can. when we got that fixed, I wanted to engage each gear and in theory, get fluid going through everything while it was on stands with no load on it. apparently what REALLY happened, was because the rear tires were a few inches higher than the front tires, there was no fluid getting to the rear upper most bearings on the main shaft, and it toasted the bearing, and the reverse gear "welded" itself to the mainshaft.

I made it a mile down the road and as soon as I got 5th gear, there was a TON of noise...and his truck sat for 4 months while my trans guy was waiting on parts.

he called around and talked to some T56 experts, and as counter-intuitive as it is, they said "fill it, run it" so we did. and it's been about a month now that Patrick's truck has been back on the road, with no issues. (for the most part--FYI. don't bust through short stock lug nuts on long wheel studs thinking "it just pops the end off, no problem!)

[Sick 660r]

it sounded really loud in your video, but if that's just the crappy mikes that camcorders have doing odd things with the audio maybe it's not as loud as it sounds?

if you had solid lifters that were making noise preventing you from hearing it before, then you might be fine. lifters aren't that loud.

but I will say, Patrick's transmission didn't make any noises that we could hear, and his 318 is still stock with a pretty quiet exhaust.

and yea...don't run it on jack stands!!! especially if it's fresh!

when he bought the truck, the slider on the 5/6 fork was making some noise, sounded like bearings rolling around in a coffee can. when we got that fixed, I wanted to engage each gear and in theory, get fluid going through everything while it was on stands with no load on it. apparently what REALLY happened, was because the rear tires were a few inches higher than the front tires, there was no fluid getting to the rear upper most bearings on the main shaft, and it toasted the bearing, and the reverse gear "welded" itself to the mainshaft.

I made it a mile down the road and as soon as I got 5th gear, there was a TON of noise...and his truck sat for 4 months while my trans guy was waiting on parts.

he called around and talked to some T56 experts, and as counter-intuitive as it is, they said "fill it, run it" so we did. and it's been about a month now that Patrick's truck has been back on the road, with no issues. (for the most part--FYI. don't bust through short stock lug nuts on long wheel studs thinking "it just pops the end off, no problem!)

The solid lifters on my last setup were pretty loud. This time everthing is quiet except for the exhaust which is why I can hear the trans. The sound in the video was because it was getting ready to stall. The trans was being loaded and unloaded causing it to clunk. That noise is gone when its on the ground. Im going to have Chris take a look at it when I have it tuned. I will probably just run it till I have serious issues. Im not putting a ton of power through it so im not that worried about it.

[Sick 660r]

the crate motor with a 2bbl m1 and without the sc seems to have a lot of low end torque and its a ton easier to drive then the 418 setup. Should be a fun street setup.

[Sick 660r]

finally done with the fuel system. The red filter is 100 micron and the blue one is a 10 micron with a check valve built it. I never had a check valve on my old setup but now I really wish I did. I have a hobbs switch wired in so that once I hit 2psi the pump will run high speed.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd274/jmonar5695/005-3.jpg

Still waiting on pulley from reichard racing.

[dakfink]

Have you checked on your stuff from Reichard?

I called them early last week and they had just re-opened from a Tornado Hit.

I was suppose to call yesterday BUT forgot.

[grapejuice1998]

Unclamp that leaf spring! :biggthumpup:

[Addicted2Blue00]

Unclamp that leaf spring! :biggthumpup:
isnt it clamp more on the front and less on the rear?

[grapejuice1998]

isnt it clamp more on the front and less on the rear?

Yes. Isn't that the rear of the spring that's clamped, or am I looking at it wrong?

[Sick 660r]

Unclamp that leaf spring! :biggthumpup:

thats how it came from hotchkis

[Sick 660r]

Have you checked on your stuff from Reichard?

I called them early last week and they had just re-opened from a Tornado Hit.

I was suppose to call yesterday BUT forgot.

I've been calling for the past week and a half but no one picks up. I also sent an email.

[BluRT00]

Unclamp that leaf spring! :biggthumpup:

Unclamping the rear of the leaf will work alright with cal-tracs? I forget what your setup was out back.

[Sick 660r]

I doubt the truck will ever see the track again so im not worried about it. I'll probably take the caltracs off as well.

[grapejuice1998]

Unclamping the rear of the leaf will work alright with cal-tracs? I forget what your setup was out back.

It works great. Dynamic Lift!

[BluRT00]

It works great. Dynamic Lift!

Will add that to my long list of shit to do to my heap. :biggthumpup:

[Five9Dak]

Yeah cut that rear clamp off, it won't change the handling and it does help traction.

[Sick 660r]

Yeah cut that rear clamp off, it won't change the handling and it does help traction.

Can you post a link to the SDCE shaft mounted RR's?

Someone explain how removing the rear clamp will help and not hurt the handling.

[dakfink]

I've been calling for the past week and a half but no one picks up. I also sent an email.

E-mail= Useless

I've had best luck calling before 9am EST.

[Five9Dak]

I sent them an email last week and got no response, when I am ready to shell out the money I will give them a call.

[grapejuice1998]

Someone explain how removing the rear clamp will help and not hurt the handling.

The way it works is; unclamping the rear of the leafs will allow them to separate as the tire bites, which tends to lift the rear of the vehicle, which in turn pushes down on the tire making it bite even harder.

As for the handling; you just won't notice any difference. It will still corner as well as it ever did.

[Five9Dak]

The loads that open the rear of the spring pack under acceleration are not related to those seen during cornering. I autocrossed the shit out of my truck with the springs modified this way- no issues.

[Sick 660r]

makes sense now. I'll take them off and give it a try.

Im going to call SDCE today about the RR's.

[Five9Dak]

Ok

Ask them if I can use my HS gift cert towards them, lol.

[Sick 660r]

Each order is pretty much custom. Price can range from 700-900 depending on your valve length and rocker arm stud location. They buy eddy heads without the rocker arm holes or push rod holes. Then they offset the push rod holes 1/4" and move the rocker arm holes back allowing them to be longer. He explaind how our short rocker arms want to lift off the stud rather that actually rotate. The material for their RR's is 2025 aluminum while jessel is 7075 which has a higher tensile strenghth but they are more brittle. Jessel rockers do not supply oil to the valve stem while theirs does. I may just but a set of girdles and call it quites. I wish I would have known abou this when I first bought my heads.

[dakfink]

Each order is pretty much custom. Price can range from 700-900 depending on your valve length and rocker arm stud location. They buy eddy heads without the rocker arm holes or push rod holes. Then they offset the push rod holes 1/4" and move the rocker arm holes back allowing them to be longer. He explaind how our short rocker arms want to lift off the stud rather that actually rotate. The material for their RR's is 2025 aluminum while jessel is 7075 which has a higher tensile strenghth but they are more brittle. Jessel rockers do not supply oil to the valve stem while theirs does. I may just but a set of girdles and call it quites. I wish I would have known abou this when I first bought my heads.

Interesting Info: The Eddie Mods sounds like the same stuff that Indy does with their Indy-Brocks. If SDCE is doing the same at least close or cheaper in Price would be the better way to go.

Oiling through the Rocker arms to valve tips is an Option with all T&Ds and I think Jesel does the same as an option.

Where is he getting his Rocker Arms from?

[Five9Dak]

SDCE called me last night and left a message. Joe did you mention me or was that a coincidence? Either way, thanks.

My eddies already have rocker stud tapped holes, like most in public circulation would.

[Sick 660r]

I told them a friend told me about them so I guess they assumed it was you since you sent them an email. You will probably understand what they tell you better then I do so post away after you talk to them.

I didn't ask where he got the RR's from. I asked him if they just buy Indybrocks but I think that rubbed him the wrong way because he went on about how about how he does not get along with indy and their ways of thinking/porting. SDCE sounds like more of a custom setup IMO.

[70Cuda383]

I'm Still confused on this rear spring clamp thing. Under acceleration, the axle will want to wrap up, which is bad. The rear clamp holds the pack together and helps prevent axle wrap. Right? So, by removing the clamp, you allow axle wrap up and that helps traction? Aye, I'm confused!!!

[Five9Dak]

Think of the way the axle wants to rotate while REACTING to the torque the tires apply to the pavement. It will open the rear of the spring pack, and drive the axle into the pavement. This force is called dynamic lift because the rear will rise as the axle drives down.

[70Cuda383]

But... Thst axle twisting motion... Isn't thst what leads to wheel hop as the spring reaches "max wrap" and binds up? And that while motion is what cal-tracs are trying to prevent? I gotta do some mental picturing here!!

[Five9Dak]

The front of the leaf stays clamped, or you even add more clamps. The spring doesn't wrap, the rear just expands. Caltracs make the front of the spring a stiff member under torque, this is a similar idea.

[grapejuice1998]

But... Thst axle twisting motion... Isn't thst what leads to wheel hop as the spring reaches "max wrap" and binds up? And that while motion is what cal-tracs are trying to prevent? I gotta do some mental picturing here!!

You only undo the rear clamp. If you don't have a traction bar like a Cal Trac, they recommend putting at least one extra clamp on the front. That way the front leaf controls the wrap, while the rear leaf opens and expands, pushing the axle (and tire) downward.

BTW, the well known Mopar Guru "Larry Shephard" is the one that told us about the modification, at the Topeka Nats in '01.

[Addicted2Blue00]

ive always been told to remove the rear clamp and add a front clamp, already been said how this works.

[70Cuda383]

Well I got nothing to lose. I was always afraid taking off the rear clamp would lead to more axle wrap as the twist of the axle would separate the leaf pack, and that clamps up front were pointless since the wrap would press the leaf pack together.

I know that as I am, I have wheel hop. Not a lot, but when I do a rolling burnout, I can see in the rubber on the road that the wheel was hopping a little.

I always figured it was because I needed better shocks or something more drastic like cal tracs

[Five9Dak]

My truck used to wheel hop before I did this mod, now it doesnt.

[Sick 660r]

My truck used to wheel hop before I did this mod, now it doesnt.

so you added a clamp to the front and removed the rear clamp?

[Five9Dak]

Correct.

[grapejuice1998]

But with a CalTrac, the extra front clamp is pointless. I don't have an extra one on mine.

[70Cuda383]

Correct.

Pictures of locations for the extra clamp? I'm going to give this a shot.

do you have any issues with the leafs wanting to "rotate" around the center bolt? or do the front clamps hold it all secure?

[Five9Dak]

On the right, just past past the jackstand, you can see half the u-bolt and the plate. It is right where the third leaf starts. The clamps were from pepboys, I think they were like $12.99. They have been on there for about 4 years, probably 40k miles, 10s of autocrosses on drag radials. No issues with the leafs moving. I cut the rear clamps off with a pnumatic cutoff wheel, don't rush it so you don't knick the leafs.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a319/black99rt/0423111510-03.jpg

[Sick 660r]

Canceled the oreder for the larger pulley. Im going to order a 44mm tial wastegate with a 9psi spring. With this setup I made 15psi with the 418 which had fully ported heads and 4bbl manifold. Anything more then 9psi will be let off by the wastegate. This will allow me to build boost sooner compared to a larger sc pulley.

I also came up with a pretty cool way to run the heater lines with the ac installed.

[Sick 660r]

here are some pics but keep in mind I still have a lot of work to do....

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd274/jmonar5695/swap/065.jpg
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd274/jmonar5695/swap/066.jpg
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd274/jmonar5695/swap/067.jpg
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd274/jmonar5695/swap/068.jpg
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd274/jmonar5695/swap/069.jpg

[Addicted2Blue00]

just wondering but why didnt you tie it back in on the factory spot to the waterpump?


it does look good

[Sick 660r]

The other hose will go to the pump. This setup replaces the hose going to the manifold. Im using all the ports in the manifold and with the ac I cant run the hose to the manifold like I want.

[mtlcafan79]

Is that a copper T fitting?

[Sick 660r]

yes its copper but its a 45* with a straight piece brazed into it.

[Sick 660r]

I decided to try the JGS 60mm bov which can be used as a wastegate at the same time. It was way cheaper then a tial wastegate. If its too large and causes boost issues then I'll just save it for the gen II turbo which I needed to buy a bov for anyways.

[2k1AmberR/T]

I think you'll be happy with the JGS stuff.

[Sick 660r]

I think you'll be happy with the JGS stuff.

me too. Seems like their stuff is good quality without the high prices.

[2k1AmberR/T]

Yeah. Here's a shot of the 50mm vs. a 38mm, and the two together with the springs and such included. I'm sure you've figured it out by now, but you can order the BOV with either a steel or an aluminum flange.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/DSC01155.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/DSC01128.jpg

[Sick 660r]

Yeah. Here's a shot of the 50mm vs. a 38mm, and the two together with the springs and such included. I'm sure you've figured it out by now, but you can order the BOV with either a steel or an aluminum flange.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/DSC01155.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/DSC01128.jpg

the 60mm is going to be huge. How tall is your bov? They said the 60 is only about 4.5".

Yeah I ordered mine with an aluminum flange. Another thing I like about JGS's stuff is that they come with everything so there is no need keep ordering springs.

[Sick 660r]

got the heater hose system done and worked great but the new fuel pump just went bad. When I had the truck running to check for leaks the pump died. Ended up blowing a 25amp fuse. Fuelab recommends a 25-40amp fuse. Replaced it with a 30amp and the pump will not build pressure and sounds like its seized up. It was cool to the touch after the fuse blew and i had plenty of gas. I also have the tank well vented. All my wiring is soldered and 10ga while fuelab recommends 10-12ga. The relay is rated for 60amps as well. I can't find anything wrong with the wiring system.

[Sick 660r]

Here is the 60mm JGS vs 50mm tial
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd274/jmonar5695/swap/043.jpg
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd274/jmonar5695/swap/044.jpg
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd274/jmonar5695/swap/046-1.jpg

The top port sees manifold pressure while the bottom port sees compressor pressure. Im going to run a small low pressure air regulator between the bottom port the the compressor. If I allow zero pressure to the bottom port it will act like a bov. The more pressure I allow to the bottom port the sooner it will open and bleed off boost. I hope its not too large and works out. Fuel pump should be back from fuelab this week.

Here is a low profile 90* I found that allows me to use the ac without major changes to the fuel system. I'm also having a gusset welded to the acessory bracket.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd274/jmonar5695/swap/046.jpg
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd274/jmonar5695/swap/049.jpg

[Addicted2Blue00]

dam talk about being close, looking good

[Sick 660r]

dam talk about being close, looking good

yeah I got really lucky.

Fuelab just called and they said something failed on the control board.

[Sick 660r]

I left the actual hole in the pipe around 46mm hoping it will help.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd274/jmonar5695/swap/049-1.jpg
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd274/jmonar5695/swap/052.jpg
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd274/jmonar5695/swap/055.jpg

[huskerrt79]

WHat you gonna do with the tial?

[Sick 660r]

WHat you gonna do with the tial?

its going on the gen II.

I ran all the vac lines and mounted the air compressor regulator today. All thats left to do is the fog lights and have the new tires mounted. Hoping to head over to PIE next week. I'll have to give him a call tomorrow and see if he's busy.

[huskerrt79]

its going on the gen II.

I ran all the vac lines and mounted the air compressor regulator today. All thats left to do is the fog lights and have the new tires mounted. Hoping to head over to PIE next week. I'll have to give him a call tomorrow and see if he's busy.

Damn, was hoping you would sell it!

[Sick 660r]

Damn, was hoping you would sell it!

Nope. I've been looking for a used blue one. Good thing I didn't buy one lol

[ADakotaRTGuy]

its going on the gen II.

I ran all the vac lines and mounted the air compressor regulator today. All thats left to do is the fog lights and have the new tires mounted. Hoping to head over to PIE next week. I'll have to give him a call tomorrow and see if he's busy.

YES HE IS BUSY!!!

[bfranzel]

that bastard makes my tial look little.

[Sick 660r]

YES HE IS BUSY!!!

Go there and do the work yourself!!!!:stirringthepot:

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Go there and do the work yourself!!!!:stirringthepot:

Hard to do from TN. And TX tomorrow.

[Kingst3r]

Pretty welds.

[Sick 660r]

Heading to PIE on Tuesday.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Heading to PIE on Tuesday.

Damn it Get some pictures of my junk.

[Special Ed's R/T - Yaaaay]

Damn it Get some pictures of my junk.


care to rephrase that ? :jester:

[ADakotaRTGuy]

care to rephrase that ? :jester:

My truck. DAMN IT

[Last_in]

Heading to PIE on Tuesday.

It is Tuesday! haha.

If you can't get the boost down where you want it, I do have the smaller crank pulley. 7.25", just saying...

[Sick 660r]

It is Tuesday! haha.

If you can't get the boost down where you want it, I do have the smaller crank pulley. 7.25", just saying...

Dave wants me to take pictures of his "junk" and your giving me crap for not saying next tuesday. wtf lol

I talked to Chris about the way I have everything setup and he said it should work just fine.

[Last_in]

Guess what tomorrow is? Dyno day!!

[Sick 660r]

Guess what tomorrow is? Dyno day!!

:rockwoot:

Plan on getting there arund 10 since he cant dyno anything till 10:30. Im going to try and get a few videos this time. Won't be anything special, only hoping for around 450.

[Last_in]

:rockwoot:

Plan on getting there arund 10 since he cant dyno anything till 10:30. Im going to try and get a few videos this time. Won't be anything special, only hoping for around 450.

Sweet, yes, please get some videos.

[Sick 660r]

a little disappointed in the numbers but I dont think its too bad for 8psi and only 20 degrees of timing. Ended up making 340rwhp and 415rwtq. When I rebuilt the motor I accidently put the distributor gear in one tooth off and I believe I did it with the 418 as well. Once we fixed that it no longer bounced on the dyno and it was much smoother driving. The JGS bov setup worked out great. I preset the regulator to 10psi and it ended up making 8psi of boost which was what I was looking for. For some reason when the fuel lab pump switched to high it gave us a lean spot so I only have it running on low all the time. Im having some trouble with the IAC and Chris is looking into a manual pcm for me. I got my emissions letter in the mail so maybe a manual pcm will allow me to pass. I'll post videos and the dyno sheet later.

[Sick 660r]

http://youtu.be/4FdR8Vy-6iM
http://youtu.be/mUG74lR_lJY
http://youtu.be/ULeDORcwi5Y

[BryanRT360]

a little disappointed in the numbers but I dont think its too bad for 8psi and only 20 degrees of timing. Ended up making 340rwhp and 415rwtq. When I rebuilt the motor I accidently put the distributor gear in one tooth off and I believe I did it with the 418 as well. Once we fixed that it no longer bounced on the dyno and it was much smoother driving. The JGS bov setup worked out great. I preset the regulator to 10psi and it ended up making 8psi of boost which was what I was looking for. For some reason when the fuel lab pump switched to high it gave us a lean spot so I only have it running on low all the time. Im having some trouble with the IAC and Chris is looking into a manual pcm for me. I got my emissions letter in the mail so maybe a manual pcm will allow me to pass. I'll post videos and the dyno sheet later.

Nice work:biggthumpup:

[RTchas]

Looking Good! I will be heading down in a couple weeks with the turbo truck.

[Sick 660r]

It really sucks going from over 700 to 340. At least it still spins through second.

[Five9Dak]

What were the IATs like? That sort of setup is going to be a hotter 8psi than if it were pullied to peak there. So the power will be down a bit.

I'm curious to see the boost curve.

[BryanRT360]

It really sucks going from over 700 to 340. At least it still spins through second.

All man I bet.. that's the main reason I went from nitrous to a SC.

It's probably faster now though

[2k1AmberR/T]

It's probably faster now though

LOL!

[Five9Dak]

All man I bet.. that's the main reason I went from nitrous to a SC.

It's probably faster now though

LOL, it better be quicker, I don't think it will be faster.

[Sick 660r]

What were the IATs like? That sort of setup is going to be a hotter 8psi than if it were pullied to peak there. So the power will be down a bit.

I'm curious to see the boost curve.

I don't think we even recorded them. I'll have to talk to Chris about it but he didn't seem concerned. I was making 4psi by 3k and I think 2psi by 2800.

It probably is faster lol

[mtlcafan79]

IAC problems as in it hangs the idle? Manual PCMs do that too. You'll never fix that until you unplug the IAC.

[jj malone]

There is something else to that hanging idle. I have a manual PCM and had that problem when I was NA . It went away when I went SC, but alot goes on in that process too. It did come back once, but I reset the PCM, relooaded the tune, and itwent away.

[Last_in]

Nice videos!

That power should be fun with the clutch on the streets, though, I would think. My stock 318 is fun with the T-56, haha.

[70Cuda383]

that hanging RPM has been a problem for a LOT of guys. myself included.

here's my best theory on why it happens. (again, theory. nobody knows for sure because "dodge is different" and nobody seems to fully understand the programming...or they don't want to admit they know it!)

something in the factory programming adds timing to bump engine vacuum up while slowing down, so that your engine continues to keep the power brake booster "fully charged"

apparently this is in the "hard" programming that SCT cannot touch, and nobody knows how to kill it, until they go fully standalone and off the factory PCM.

combine that with added timing for performance mods like cams, and then the crazy vacuum signals the PCM sees from either boost or a really lumpy cams...my guess is that the added timing, crazy vacuum signals, the engine thinks it's about to stall, so it opens up the IAC to try to keep the engine running, and viola! you get hanging RPMs.

I tried probably 10 different tunes, each one with a slight mod to ignition timing. apparently you cannot target any certain vacuum signal in the tune anywhere. (coast down fuel cut-off, idle target, etc.) it would get better, and what I found was that the PCM would learn around the SCT tune. I'd flash a new tune and it would work great for a few days, then as the PCM re-learned idle, the hanging RPM came back.

tried a new tune, re-flash/reset PCM, ran great for a few days, then it would come back.


I used to think this was an NA only problem, linked to low vacuum from the cam, and that the PCM thought the low vacuum meant it was about to stall out...but if you were having the problem under boost? then I don't know! unless it happens as you lift and go from positive manifold pressure to vacuum, and the engine is trying to find idle again.

how did I fix it? I unplugged my IAC, and I set my idle speed with the throttle blades.. and the problem went away. I drove it around a few days that way, and it was great! no more hanging RPM! cold starts were not a problem. I'd start it, hold it at 1500 rpm with my foot on the pedal, for about 5 seconds, then slowly lift the pedal till it went down to idle, and it would idle just fine.

only problem? check engine light.

my fix?

fill the IAC port with epoxy so it's completely blocked. then plug the IAC back in, and reset the OBC-II codes with the SCT hand held. CEL went away, hanging idle gone, and truck runs great. been that way for 9 months now, and absolutely no driveability problems.

[Sick 660r]

my problem is not hanging rpm. It actually stalls when I come to a stop. We tried everything. We adjusted the tb and even replaced the IAC. Adjusting the tb did nothing but replacing the IAC fixed the problem long enought for Chris and I to think it was solved. On the 1.5 hour drive back the problem returned. We will adjust the idle setting in SCT to the point where the rpms will start to hang but ever once in a while it will still stall. I'll ask Chris to chime in and he can probably explain it a lot better.

Now that I think about the IAT more it is probably lower then a stock paxton setup. I have a 4" intake with a 9" filter vs the small filter paxton supplied and the reduce they made you install which narrowed the intake down to about 1.5". My crank pulley is stock and the sc pulley is only .05" smaller so im not spinning the sc much more.

The truck is still a lot of fun to drive but it doesnt pull in the higher gears like it used to. Wot now feels like quarter throttle before LOL. Maybe I will try to find a set of used heads and install a mild blower cam but I really dont think I will car once I get the ball rolling on the gen II.

[70Cuda383]

Ok, thats the other end of the spectrum. We pulled timing and got to the point where you are, it doesn't hang, but would sometimes stall coming to a stop, so we added some timing back and the stalling went away, but the hanging RPM came back. Thats when I said fuckit, and epoxied the IAC port!

[Sick 660r]

Ok, thats the other end of the spectrum. We pulled timing and got to the point where you are, it doesn't hang, but would sometimes stall coming to a stop, so we added some timing back and the stalling went away, but the hanging RPM came back. Thats when I said fuckit, and epoxied the IAC port!

I'll mention the timing to Chris. That would be an easy fix:biggthumpup:

[70Cuda383]

If only there was a way to SCT tune the idle I think we could make it work, but everyone I've talked to said the idle and IAC are "PCM learned" and it would always return as the PCM learned. Fucking dodge programming!!

[70Cuda383]

By the way, by messing w timing, we were able to get it to where it wouldn't stall, and as long as I went straight to neutral, it wouldn't hang, but if I held a gear while slowing, or if I downshifted, it would hang. So w an auto, there might be that perfect balance, but this is a stick truck, I wanna downshift it when slowing down!! Ha!!

[huskerrt79]

PMed ya sick.

[Five9Dak]

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a319/black99rt/idle.png

I do hope you guys get it figure out. Not having an IAC is not the best option. If I use open loop control for my idle and I engage the AC, it drops 200 rpm when it should go up! This would be the MS analog of no IAC once warmed up.

[70Cuda383]

yes. not having IAC might not be the optimum solution for some. my truck is a factory "stripped model" it has no A/C, no cruise, manual everything, etc. it's too bad SCT doesn't have a way to "hard program" the IAC settings so the PCM doesn't "learn" the hanging rpm or stalling out that a lot of us have seen.

being a stick truck, with no A/C, I don't have to worry about RPM drop when I put it in gear, or when the A/C compressor kicks on.

so for me, getting rid of it works fine, and has not affected overall driveability at all.

it's kind of like taking a few steps backwards...while it's not as bad as going all the way back to a carb, it's similar in that you only have 1 "idle speed" so you'd have to set your idle like you did on a nold school carb...vehicle fully warmed up, in gear, with the parking brake set or an assistant standing on the brake (best option) so that you can set the idle speed, then if it jumps up a few hundred RPM when in neutral, then so be it...automatics are only in neutral when you're just starting out, or just ending your drive anyway.

the A/C would still add timing when it kicks on, right? that might help aleviate any RPM changes when the clutch kicks in.

[Five9Dak]

The factory computer's idle timing seems to follow a seperate map compared to what I've seen from screen captures of SCT.

I suspect there is an independant algorithm or lookup for timing at idle which also helps stable speed (ignition timing will work faster than the IAC at reacting to laod changes) Even if the AC switch doesn't add directly (and I heard it has) the change in load would.

On a poorly tuned closed loop idle on MS, one can get a "hang" on the cruise part of the spark map with high timing, and the motor makes decent torque there so it's hard to "bring it down."

MS and some other factory implementations use settings to identify this condition- low TPS, steady RPM, and RPMdot. Perhaps one could discover a misunderstood or unknown variable to this effect to get the JTEC to do stop this behavior.

[Sick 660r]

Been working out some of the bugs with MS. I still have JTEC controling IAC and it likes to hange the rpms for a very long time. My msd decided to take a shit so I'm running on stock ignition until my new msd comes which should be tomorrow. I have picked up over 5" of vacuum with my MS tune compared to SCT and I changed nothing else.

Here is my dyno sheet from Chris.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd274/jmonar5695/joemonar.jpg

[mtlcafan79]

Open or closed loop at idle? Target AFR? I got the best vac with mine at 13.5:1.

[Sick 660r]

Open or closed loop at idle? Target AFR? I got the best vac with mine at 13.5:1.

Closed loop. Target is 14.2 I don't think I'm allowing MS to make big enough changes because my afr is actually 13.5. I just need to mess with it some more. I'm trying to incorporate a little fuel economy since I want to drive the truck more as a DD now. Both Jason and I are having sync issues around 4k.

[huskerrt79]

Been working out some of the bugs with MS. I still have JTEC controling IAC and it likes to hange the rpms for a very long time. My msd decided to take a shit so I'm running on stock ignition until my new msd comes which should be tomorrow. I have picked up over 5" of vacuum with my MS tune compared to SCT and I changed nothing else.

Here is my dyno sheet from Chris.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd274/jmonar5695/joemonar.jpg

If you send your MSD off to be fixed it will only be between 17.00 and 86.00 for them to fix it. Only takes about a week.

[Sick 660r]

If you send your MSD off to be fixed it will only be between 17.00 and 86.00 for them to fix it. Only takes about a week.

It was still under the 1 year warranty through jegs so it's free:biggthumpup: This is my second one in two years.