View Full Version : Valvetrain Help!!
Rooknute
04-09-2008, 01:23 PM
Hey guys, yesterday I noticed a tap when I started the truck up. Talked to a few people and they said it sounds like a lifter sticking or damaged. So here in the next few weeks we are going to dig into it and see what we can find.
I already have a M1 thats been sitting in my living room all ready to go! I was going to throw the M1 on, and maybe get some 1.7 rockers, pushrods, and lifters. Plus I'll also need to get a install kit for the M1.
Just wanted to get some ideas from everyone on whats the best parts to get for this fix/upgrade.
I was thinking about going with the H.Sharp 1.7 non-adjustable rockers. But what pushrods will I need with them? Will I also need to get springs?
And with the lifters, should I just get the Mopar stockers, I noticed that Sam has some aftermarket ones on his site, but they are a bit more than the stock ones.
And finally, is the best place to get the install kit for the M1 through John M?
Siciliano15
04-09-2008, 01:33 PM
Hey guys, yesterday I noticed a tap when I started the truck up. Talked to a few people and they said it sounds like a lifter sticking or damaged. So here in the next few weeks we are going to dig into it and see what we can find.
I already have a M1 thats been sitting in my living room all ready to go! I was going to throw the M1 on, and maybe get some 1.7 rockers, pushrods, and lifters. Plus I'll also need to get a install kit for the M1.
Just wanted to get some ideas from everyone on whats the best parts to get for this fix/upgrade.
I was thinking about going with the H.Sharp 1.7 non-adjustable rockers. But what pushrods will I need with them? Will I also need to get springs?
And with the lifters, should I just get the Mopar stockers, I noticed that Sam has some aftermarket ones on his site, but they are a bit more than the stock ones.
And finally, is the best place to get the install kit for the M1 through John M?
The mopar performance lifters are fine to use. If you want to spend more $ you can get the crowers or the rhodes but unless you have a very big cam ur not gonna benefit much from those. With the HS non-adjustables you keep the stock pushrods or for a little more piece of mind get a set of hardened stock length pushrods like the edelbrock ones. The M1 install kit..... get it wherever its cheapest i guess.
White Turbo
04-09-2008, 02:27 PM
I've got a set of Crower adjustable 1.7 rockers and Crower 6.95" hardened push rods for sale if you want 'em.
RR's $280 + shipping
PR's $65 + shipping
PM me if interested.
Five9Dak
04-09-2008, 02:37 PM
I have the edelbrock hardened pushrods, hughes adj 1.6 RRs and mopar .600 springs with cromoly retainers, I have no qualms revving it right to 5900rpm (soft touch) with fuel cut comming in at 6k on the mopar pcm. Granted it doesnt make much power that high.... lol
Definitely get harder springs while you are in there, even if you don't need the rpm potential now, one day you might.
360 XRT
04-09-2008, 04:30 PM
I'm going threw the same issues myself.I just finished doing the har/sharp n/adjust and i still have a slight tick.I have my m-1 sitting on the bench waiting for all the parts so when it goes in i'm either installing just the cylinder effected or i'm going to shave a little off the r/r pedastal.My advice to you is get the mopar 1.7 adjustable kit that way if you have a little wear you can adjust it back in.And please be sure you get the install kit on the m-1,its worth it.
geo2slow4u
04-09-2008, 04:47 PM
I always liked the mopar adjustables. I have put them on all 3 of my trucks. Bit more envolved on setting them. Those crowers above would be good to.
Rooknute
04-09-2008, 05:35 PM
I'm going threw the same issues myself.I just finished doing the har/sharp n/adjust and i still have a slight tick.I have my m-1 sitting on the bench waiting for all the parts so when it goes in i'm either installing just the cylinder effected or i'm going to shave a little off the r/r pedastal.My advice to you is get the mopar 1.7 adjustable kit that way if you have a little wear you can adjust it back in.And please be sure you get the install kit on the m-1,its worth it.
If I do the M1, lifters, rockers, push rods, springs; I shouldn't have any wear to adjust for should I? I just really don't want to have to adjust the rockers every so often. Maybe thats the wrong mindset...
And when you did the rockers, did you do anything with the lifters? Everyone keeps telling me that is where the noise it coming from.
Knock on wood, I haven't heard any ticking today yet. But I think this is still the best time for me to do the swap anyway...
uwntsumrtII
04-09-2008, 05:48 PM
if you do the HS non-adjust rockers and stock length push rods it's a set it & forget it type deal. these roller setup have next to no wear to worry about so you should be fine.
White Turbo
04-09-2008, 06:13 PM
if you do the HS non-adjust rockers and stock length push rods it's a set it & forget it type deal. these roller setup have next to no wear to worry about so you should be fine.
Same with adjustable rockers... Once they are initially set, you shouldn't have to touch them again.
Rooknute
04-09-2008, 10:22 PM
Same with adjustable rockers... Once they are initially set, you shouldn't have to touch them again.
So then where does the difference come into play, between getting the adjustables and non-adjust?
Any performance difference?
360 XRT
04-10-2008, 01:18 AM
Their will always be wear on the valvetrain,but with a roller set-up it is minimal,very minimal.The pros/cons of adjustable-non adjustable are with the non-adjust the procedure is quick and easy(any one can do it).With the adjusting you can get precise valve lash and the versitility of using them with any cam.Installation though should be handled by someone familar with setting valve lash.
Rooknute
04-10-2008, 02:46 AM
So in other words, not us! lol
Actually, idk, I'll have to talk to Adam and see what he feels comfortable with, he might already know how to set the lash and get everything running smooth.
uwntsumrtII
04-10-2008, 03:16 AM
So in other words, not us! lol.
speak for yourself, LOL!!
Rooknute
04-10-2008, 01:21 PM
speak for yourself, LOL!!
lol, I meant us, as in me and Adam. :) The two that will be doing the upgrade/fix.
Less you'd like to make a trip to PA for a case of beer? :jester:
yeah i have done that before so its not a problem. hell im doing it on my truck right now lol
Five9Dak
04-11-2008, 04:48 AM
http://www.dakotart.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1272
Intense RT
04-11-2008, 05:07 AM
I just installed my HS non-adj rockers and if there is ticking I think I'd hear it. Just put black magic extreme fan on too, so pretty quiet now, just exhaust mostly. Anyway, got 58k and from looking around online it was recommended that if you have over 50k miles then you should replace valvesprings, so I did that along with valve stem seals. I bought some assembly lube at Advance and worked it into every moving part of each rocker...loaded em up to keep them from getting premature wear before engine oil would have time to work its way into rocker bearings and tip. Maybe thatand the new stock valvesprings are why mine are quiet, not sure.
Nolan
04-11-2008, 05:44 AM
How long ago was you last oil change and what oil filter did you use?
Some brands of oil filters will let the oil drain back into the pan so the lifters clatter at startup. Fram filters are notorious for this. I tried a K&N oil filter and it did the same thing. I just use the WIX or Mopar filters now.
Nolan
grapejuice1998
04-11-2008, 01:23 PM
Knock on wood, I haven't heard any ticking today yet. But I think this is still the best time for me to do the swap anyway...
I would check and make sure it's not an exhaust leak, before I went through the valve train.
Rooknute
04-11-2008, 01:52 PM
http://www.dakotart.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1272
Thanks for the heads up, but we really didn't want to have to pull the heads to put the new springs on. I'm going to be getting heads over the summer, so we are going to hold off till then with the springs.
How long ago was you last oil change and what oil filter did you use?
Some brands of oil filters will let the oil drain back into the pan so the lifters clatter at startup. Fram filters are notorious for this. I tried a K&N oil filter and it did the same thing. I just use the WIX or Mopar filters now.
That's not good to hear. lol I've always used the K&N's on all my trucks.
Got a part number for the WIX or Mopar?
Intense RT
04-11-2008, 01:56 PM
Thanks for the heads up, but we really didn't want to have to pull the heads to put the new springs on. I'm going to be getting heads over the summer, so we are going to hold off till then with the springs.
That's not good to hear. lol I've always used the K&N's on all my trucks.
Got a part number for the WIX or Mopar?FYI, K&N is the same filter as a Mobil 1 with a nut welded on.
Rooknute
04-11-2008, 04:11 PM
FYI, K&N is the same filter as a Mobil 1 with a nut welded on.
I don't believe ya, why would they charge more for the K&N if it's the same! :jester:
Good to know! Guess I'll be switching to a Mopar or Wix
Rooknute
04-11-2008, 04:15 PM
Just an FYI, I'm going to be getting the Crower 1.7 rockers and push rods off of White Turbo next week. Thanks for everyones help and keep the information coming!!
dude we are gonna have a blast putting this shit in .....i gone learn you alot lol
Rooknute
04-11-2008, 06:44 PM
Awesome bro, I'm scared already!! lol
How many miles did your lifters have on them? Not sure if I'm gonna be able to get the Mopar performance ones just yet.
White Turbo
04-11-2008, 07:59 PM
Part # for the Wix oil filter is 51085.
Five9Dak
04-12-2008, 05:50 AM
Thanks for the heads up, but we really didn't want to have to pull the heads to put the new springs on. I'm going to be getting heads over the summer, so we are going to hold off till then with the springs.
The only thing you have to remove is the valve covers, and you'll need a spring compressor and a compression tester (to hold air in the cyl's) You don't need to touch the heads.
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