My turbocharger install - PIE R.T.S.

[2k1AmberR/T]

Well, here it is. I'm sure this thread will last a long time with a bunch of useless nonsense bullshit bickering but to start off I'd like to keep it relatively simple and informative with lots of pictures and whatnot. Let the shit hit the fan later on once I've uploaded videos and whatnot please.

Chris at PIE is a great guy to deal with. Many of you, especially on the east coast, are familiar with him and you know what I'm talking about if you've dealt with him in the past. For those of you on the forums that have just read stuff about him and seen some of the work he's done on here...I'm sure what you read about him was pleasant as well. So please do not flood me or this thread with questions like what the kit costs and what is included and bullshit like that. Open your eyes and read about it. If you have the money and the interest definitely give Chris a call to talk to him more in depth about it. He's an awesome guy to deal with and this kit is awesome and I think it should be renamed to the awesome turbo kit because that's about as straight forward as you can get. I do not know everything but he does so call him to ask questions instead of PM'ing me to get sub par answers if you're serious. http://www.performanceinjectionequipment.com

[2k1AmberR/T]

I'm busy today with a wedding. Fuck off, check back tomorrow.

So I got a little tempted, I've done a little work today. I got the headers off (Todd's fucking port plates have always given me problems, and yet again some of them don't want to come off...fucking little 4mm bolts don't help. I'm a bit upset right now to say the least). I also took my 14x5" air filter off and put the new air hat on. The picture shows the ring that goes on top of the throttle body that is o-ringed. The hot pipes look absolutely incredible. The flanges on the manifolds are quite thick and everything seems to be pretty heavy duty. I love it. The welds are gorgeous, the v-bands look to be like very nice pieces as well. Not some cheapo v-bands. The downpipe has been wrapped and covered as well to keep the heat down under the hood. (No, that wing nut on the air hat isn't staying...I just needed something to hold it down for now).

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/watersedge010-1.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/watersedge009-1.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/watersedge008.jpg
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http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/watersedge005.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/watersedge004.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/watersedge003.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/watersedge002.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/watersedge001.jpg

[2k1AmberR/T]

I'm laying in bed. Go away.

Well I'm still recovering from the wedding yesterday, it is hotter than it needs to be outside, although the truck is in a garage I'm still working in the sun the entire time, and reflections of the sun and it is terrible. So I'm just taking it slow, enjoying myself, bullshitting with other stuff/errands/whatnot. So not a lot of progress has been made yet. Here are a few more pictures. I basically have the headers off now, relocated the coil for now, and I have the front end off ready to take off the balancer, water pump, and timing chain cover. The balancer needs to come off to get the crossover pipes in place anyway so while I'm at it I am going to tear off the timing chain cover and use a different cover that has a threaded boss on it for my oil return. Once that is done I think the hard stuff will be over and I plan on having this all complete at some point today. If I can pull this stupid balancer off.

Once again I'll mention that this isn't how the truck will look when it is complete. I almost don't even want to post some of these pictures, but then again I guess I don't really care otherwise I wouldn't post them. I have a random ass wing nut on the air hat just holding it in place, now I have a blue air hat coupling (the black one I got with the kit is 3.5" instead of 3" so I borrowed this blue one from a friend this week while I wait for my new 3" black one to come in the mail), the coil is just kinda hanging out on top of the alternator...I'm just trying to get the damn thing back on the road. So don't start giving me shit about how messy and stupid it looks just yet. Maybe next week with final pictures and videos you can give me hell for whatever you'd like though.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/blahblah001.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/blahblah002.jpg

Alright I'm done for the day, this shit is pissing me off. I've only spent a couple of hours total wrenching today but I guess I really don't care since I have all week to finish up and the hard shit is over now. I need to borrow a bandsaw to cut this old exhaust system off (I've only made one cut out of four total...and my sawzall blade is down for the count), then the timing chain cover and the rest of the front end will go on tomorrow and I'll start bolting on the hot side stuff. Hopefully Tuesday I'll be able to wire up the gauges and the rest of the stuff and fire it up for the first time with the downpipe only until I can figure out how I'm going to do the rest of the exhaust system. No new pictures from tonight...it looks pretty much the same as the 2 pictures above. Minus the balancer/water pump/timing cover.

Alright, so I'm not actually done for the day. Two more last pictures from tonight.

My progress so far:
Headers and exhaust uninstalled
Coil relocated
air hat installed
timing chain cover off and ready for new cover with oil return to be installed
oil feed T installed and ready for oil feed line

Doesn't sound like I've done much yet but I basically just have to install the headers and crossover pipes tomorrow, throw the front end back together, install the turbocharger and run the oil feed/return lines, install the new fuel injectors and map sensor, and hopefully I can bolt up the down pipe as well if I can get a buddy of mine to help me install the o2 bung (I don't have a welder). That pretty much leaves the gauges and buttoning up the small shit for Tuesday and I hope I can get it out on the street for a test drive if everything is alright. We'll see. Tuesday might be asking a little bit much but I have 6-8 hours a day that I can wrench so I guess it depends on how much energy and motivation I have after work.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/blahblah003.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/blahblah004.jpg

[2k1AmberR/T]

Good thing I can carpool this week!

update #1 - I'm taking a food break, then going to change spark plugs while the headers are off and out of the way, and then hopefully later tonight I'll be posting pictures of the new manifolds in place and the crossover pipes, the turbocharger and oil lines and the downpipe. I just finished cleaning the old RTV off the cylinder heads and putting the new timing chain cover back on with the oil return fitting installed.

I ended up just cutting my two front o2 sensor wires so I have to go back and solder them together but that shouldn't be too difficult, I have 3 wires for the map sensor to take care of later tonight anyway. The fuel injectors may also get done tonight. That pretty much leaves the gauges for tomorrow and buttoning everything up. I wish I could take it for a test drive but I don't know when I'll be able to weld up the exhaust piping and without that in place the wideband readings will be off so I will probably drive the truck but just make sure it doesn't go into boost until I have the exhaust system complete and the wideband in place. I'm hoping Friday.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/blahblah.jpg

update #2 - I'm kinda done for the day? I didn't get much done, I feel like just relaxing. I'm about to go outside to figure out what to do after the downpipe and how to do it. But...here's the only pics I have. Still have to put the front end back together and tighten up all of the hot side stuff, and I have a bunch of soldering to do and the gauges.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/blahblah005.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/blahblah006.jpg
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[2k1AmberR/T]

If you haven't seen any info/pictures/updates I'm probably dead by now. Or something like that.

Okay, so this is actually the second Tuesday after my original post. I got thrown back a week because I wanted black gauges instead of white ones. Then the exhaust shop got booked and I had to wait until the following week after getting my new gauges installed. So here I am 2 weeks delayed...yikes.

Pictures (still not 100% finished, have a few more things to add...and if you like looking for details you'll see a lot of shit wrong in these pictures haha.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/c3d9fbd7.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/c22bc6d0.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/d4682620.jpg

Here is a picture of the PCM clearance with the charge pipe installed for those of you that were concerned for some reason. I'm sure it'll be completely fine, I may end up flipping the PCM so the plugs are at the bottom instead, or so they're facing out toward the fender. We'll see.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/f076fc8e.jpg

For those of you with the older 99 style washer fluid bottles...here's a picture for you guys. I haven't 'installed' this but it is sitting in place to give you guys a general idea.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/3e774127.jpg

Keep in mind Chris has stuff even closer on his truck and through ample testing it is alright. I don't see an issue with it but since some of you internet experts seemed to express concern I went out of my way to take these pictures for you. So enjoy.

[2k1AmberR/T]

...




...

Two Wednesdays later I finally have an exhaust system on the truck. The downpipe the kit consists of is two pieces, one from the turbo to about halfway down along the valve cover and the other piece is a 90 degree bend that follows the firewall down to the top of the frame rail. These are both wrapped with Inferno wrap to keep the heat down under the hood. Keep in mind the entire kit is stainless steel with v-bands. From there my exhaust guy continued the same theme of stainless steel and v-bands for the entire exhaust system. I supplied the parts so it all matches, I wanted to make sure my new exhaust system was about as 'solid' as I could get it. I didn't spend a couple thousand dollars just to half ass the rest of the exhaust system so EVERYTHING is stainless steel, the o2 bungs, the v-bands, the 18" Magnaflow muffler, the mandrel bent pipe, the muffler hanger rod...it is all tig welded (except the muffler is migged on so it matches the rest of the welds on the muffler itself, looks just like it came from Magnaflow) and I have a 3" high flow cat that has a v-band on each side, I will have a test pipe made up with 2 extra flanges I have so I can get the truck through emissions and inspections. The tip is from the Spintech true duals (an extra I had) and I like how it looks. So now I just have to wrap things up and get it on the road, if not tonight hopefully tomorrow!

Pictures of the exhaust system, I'll get better ones later perhaps...I snapped these really quickly while on my way out of the house today.

This is the downpipe as you can see it from under the hood. I still need to wrap the rearward section. The v-band makes removal and installation easy.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/dcdbe85d.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/0b542d9e.jpg

Here is a shot of the downpipe from under the truck.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/9847f27e.jpg

This is a crappy picture of where the high flow cat starts (at the v-band, it basically sits above the tranny crossmember) and there's another v-band behind the cat so I can easily fab up a test pipe to put in the cat's place. There's really not a whole lot of pipe between the v-band on the downpipe (as seen above) and the v-band you see here in front of the cat. The wideband is placed first, behind that are the two front o2 sensors, and behind the cat are the rear two o2 sensors.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/4a8b5be7.jpg

Here's a shot of the muffler which comes after the cat. 18" case Magnaflow.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/a0bde2db.jpg

And here's the tip. The tailpipe comes out of the muffler, up and over the frame rail and then down and out the side as you see here. Exactly like the Spintech duals do.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/12513f35.jpg

[2k1AmberR/T]

Keisler is a dumb fucking company. Don't deal with them for any reason at all. AT ALL! Read the forums and figure it out. It isn't recent news, we've all known it for a while. I'm just too dumb and can't resist wanting a clutch.

[2k1AmberR/T]

It is the weekend! Time to tear up dem skreetz!

[2k1AmberR/T]

Let's see what I can do within a week.

I think I'm going to save this post here for a results/aftermath type of deal. Basically comparing before to after. So here's the 'before' list:

14x5 k&n
58mm f&b
4bbl m1
210 cam
1.92 r/t heads, valve job
gsm headers and 2.5" duals, with cats
sct tune

The truck ran consistent 13.8's all day long in the summer time at about 99-100mph. The dyno numbers were about 300hp/330tq. Best of 13.64 at 100.8 at the track. 60's generally about 2.05, pretty consistent. On street tires.

The new setup obviously has a different air hat, headers and exhaust piping. With 5-6 pounds of boost I'll be posting up new dyno numbers very soon and I'll also have some track times soon after as well. Probably in a few weeks. I'm eager to see how far I can go with the stock fuel & ignition and how efficient the system is. I think if I see 400hp at the wheels I'll be pretty damn happy but I know it'll be a pretty conservative tune and being a daily driver on the stock bottom end, no intercooler, pump gas...etc...I really don't care to squeeze out every last horsepower that I can but I hope I'm somewhere around that 400 mark. I'd also like to see a 12 second time slip.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Haha, he was just at my house. He drove two hours from his shop with Jim to pick up my old engine and my new block. I will be getting that same turbo kit. So it should be pretty nice. Can't wait to see the progress on it.

[2k1AmberR/T]

This quality of this stuff is incredible. You'll be pleased with it, I'm sure.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

This quality of this stuff is incredible. You'll be pleased with it, I'm sure.

True, well he is building my new engine so yea I trust him, haha.

[2k1AmberR/T]

I'm assuming you'll be getting his 'stage 2' kit with the new engine?

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Pipes and turbo really. Don't need much of anything else.

[jmaack727]

Very nice!

[White Turbo]

Very nice quality...

I'm impressed. :biggthumpup:


Welcome to the dark side
:burnout:

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Wow, those are better quality than I expected. Those are top notch.

[ME111]

Way to go Jason! I forget but did you manage to get a new dyno run with that 4bbl?

[Adobedude]

What does the kit cost and whats included?

[Last_in]

Sweet! Now I have entertainment for the week.

[grapejuice1998]

What does the kit cost and whats included?

Having that reading problem again, huh? :jester:

.....So please do not flood me or this thread with questions like what the kit costs and what is included and bullshit like that. Open your eyes and read about it. If you have the money and the interest definitely give Chris a call to talk to him more in depth about it......

[TurboBlew]

whats the fucking kit cost????

[TurboBlew]

youre not going to ceramic coat the hot side?? gay!!!!!!!!!

[BryanRT360]

Looking good Jason :biggthumpup: you still plan on 12 psi? Did you talk to Chris about the need for a fuel system ?

[Adobedude]

whats the fucking kit cost????

You left out "What's included?"

[TurboBlew]

You left out "What's included?"

it wont matter... Ill still complain :D

[RobbyD]

http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:JRXovwVHfJi1dM:http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/pp109/123aquafina123/best_thread_ever.jpg&t=1

[GrimRT]

I think I mentioned this before but....what are you using from cooling the charge? I wouldn't personally run stock pistons with a turbo at all, but that is up to you, you might get away with 5psi. What are you running for a tune? SCT?

When you install this, one thing you have to consider is that the turbo runs hot, it will melt anything and everything close to it or the manifold. All my nice little plug wire separators, and number rings on the wires actually started on fire on the dyno. They didn't melt they burst into flames. Your under hood temperatures are going to be HIGH. IMO, get those pipes coated. The problem with the heat wrap is that if you have leaks, and you will, the material gets saturated and smells every time you drive it.

What are you using for boost control? What size turbo did you go with?

Here is my setup. It is still far from perfect but it is getting closer.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y223/sammyfred/truckengine.jpg

[uwntsumrtII]

SEE Jason, now you have sumthin I want :hail:

[bfranzel]

I think I mentioned this before but....what are you using from cooling the charge? I wouldn't personally run stock pistons with a turbo at all, but that is up to you, you might get away with 5psi. What are you running for a tune? SCT?

When you install this, one thing you have to consider is that the turbo runs hot, it will melt anything and everything close to it or the manifold. All my nice little plug wire separators, and number rings on the wires actually started on fire on the dyno. They didn't melt they burst into flames. Your under hood temperatures are going to be HIGH. IMO, get those pipes coated. The problem with the heat wrap is that if you have leaks, and you will, the material gets saturated and smells every time you drive it.

What are you using for boost control? What size turbo did you go with?

Here is my setup. It is still far from perfect but it is getting closer.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y223/sammyfred/truckengine.jpg

good job. yourset up looks very good:biggthumpup:

[2k1AmberR/T]

Looking good Jason :biggthumpup: you still plan on 12 psi? Did you talk to Chris about the need for a fuel system ?

I'm sticking with 5-6psi for now. I don't want to fuck with the fuel system and ignition system. It is purely a street truck and my daily driver. I definitely don't want to start spending money on fuel/spark to support more boost which will then require a new engine and also a transmission and maybe a new rear diff and who knows what else I'll get myself into. I'm just keeping it as-is and being happy with it. There's always a certain point you shouldn't go past and I think I've reached it.

Way to go Jason! I forget but did you manage to get a new dyno run with that 4bbl?

I did not get to put it on the dyno. Chris really didn't want me to for some reason. It sucks, I know, oh well. Someone else can do a 2bbl - 4bbl comparison at some point in time. He probably just doesn't want to see how much a 4bbl helps on a modified engine because his Hughes intake shootout essentially shows that the 4bbl doesn't do much and the Hughes intake is better. So I can't say I blame him, but I definitely would have liked to see how much my dyno graph changed.

I think I mentioned this before but....what are you using from cooling the charge? I wouldn't personally run stock pistons with a turbo at all, but that is up to you, you might get away with 5psi. What are you running for a tune? SCT?

When you install this, one thing you have to consider is that the turbo runs hot, it will melt anything and everything close to it or the manifold. All my nice little plug wire separators, and number rings on the wires actually started on fire on the dyno. They didn't melt they burst into flames. Your under hood temperatures are going to be HIGH. IMO, get those pipes coated. The problem with the heat wrap is that if you have leaks, and you will, the material gets saturated and smells every time you drive it.

What are you using for boost control? What size turbo did you go with?


I do not have an intercooler as of now. I will figure that out in the future.
I am still on the stock bottom end but only staying around 5-6psi. SCT is being used for tuning.
Chris has been driving his truck for a few months with the heat wrap/heat shield stuff you see in my pictures, as well as a shield for the turbocharger and his plug wires and everything under the hood looks just fine. He said it gets HOT under there, but it isn't too hot. His turbo is about a half inch away from his coolant overflow bottle and it has a small little blemish from heat on it but it hasn't melted yet and I don't think it will (otherwise it would have by now). He even drove that thing a few hours to Carlisle and back this year, it isn't just a shop project/dyno queen. It gets used. If he can get away with 10psi on a stock engine and 87 octane and no intercooler I'm sure I'll be fine with a more conservative tune, less boost, and better fuel. And yes, he's done some experimenting and testing with that truck of his. That's the whole point of putting a kit together for us. He didn't just cut and bend and weld some pipes to where it all fits under the hood...he wants to know it works before he sells it.
As far as boost control I don't have a controller yet, I'm just relying on the 5 pound spring in the wastegate. Chris said it should stay around 5-6psi but I will probably end up with a boost controller before too long anyway because I know it is the right thing to do. I actually asked Chris to order me a dual stage for the kit because that's what he recommended but my bank account ran dry so I had to go without it. Right now I just have the 'base' kit, I need to get it on the truck and get the truck running. Other bells and whistles like a boost controller and intercooler and whatnot I can get later on down the road when I have more money and when it is more necessary. The turbo is 70mm.

[mtlcafan79]

What does the kit cost and whats included?

http://www.performanceinjectionequipment.com/rts.php

[Blak92]

I'Someone else can do a 2bbl - 4bbl comparison at some point in time. He probably just doesn't want to see how much a 4bbl helps on a modified engine because his Hughes intake shootout essentially shows that the 4bbl doesn't do much and the Hughes intake is better. So I can't say I blame him, but I definitely would have liked to see how much my dyno graph changed.






I just dynoed 537/606 with an M1 2bbl... and a 52mm TB. On 10 psi, 22* timing. 408ci, 218/228-114, 9.3:1, ported eddy heads, A/W intercooler, 76mm Tnetics rear mounted turbo at PIE. Chris built the motor, I did everything else.

My point is, you can still make plenty of power with the M1 2bbl if thats what you already got. Im never going over those numbers, ever, my poor TKO600 is only rated at just that, 600, and Im certainly putting more than that through it now as it is.

[2k1AmberR/T]

I have a 4bbl on the truck now. I guess I wasted 50 bucks upgrading to a 58mm throttle body but...whatever. What is done is done now. I actually made a little money on the 4bbl swap so I'm not really complaining. It is what it is. I guess in the end I made money anyway because I made more on the intake swap than I lost on the throttle body swap.

I hope I have a tko600 mated up to this before next summer, but we'll see. Keisler won't quit dicking me over. I either want my money back or I want my product that I purchased almost two months ago.

How much money would you say you have wrapped up in your a/w intercooler, in total? I'd really like to do that with this at some point in time as well.

[Blak92]

I have a 4bbl on the truck now. I guess I wasted 50 bucks upgrading to a 58mm throttle body but...whatever. What is done is done now. I actually made a little money on the 4bbl swap so I'm not really complaining. It is what it is. I guess in the end I made money anyway because I made more on the intake swap than I lost on the throttle body swap.

I hope I have a tko600 mated up to this before next summer, but we'll see. Keisler won't quit dicking me over. I either want my money back or I want my product that I purchased almost two months ago.

How much money would you say you have wrapped up in your a/w intercooler, in total? I'd really like to do that with this at some point in time as well.


$150 for the intercooler itself, um, probably $300-350.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u69/blak92/Mobile%20Uploads/downsize-2.jpg

[2k1AmberR/T]

Shit, that's it? For the tank and the lines and everything? That's not bad at all! I was planning on either doing meth or an intercooler or perhaps both at some point in the future.

[Blak92]

Shit, that's it? For the tank and the lines and everything? That's not bad at all! I was planning on either doing meth or an intercooler or perhaps both at some point in the future.

Tank was 100, pump was 120... all my lines and clamps I got off my work van... Asked the parts guy to pay for it, he said dont bother.... They dont seem to mind if you arent begging every week and do your freaking job.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Links to said parts?

[2k1AmberR/T]

No shit, that's incredible. I might have to do that sooner than I thought. Frozen boost for the intercooler, right? I think Chris will have an intercooler mocked up and ready for this turbo system sometime this fall/winter/spring but I don't know how long it'll be or how long I'll be willing to wait so I might end up doing it myself.

[Blak92]

frozenboost.com

dropped my intake temps from 210-220 with the vortech down to 110-120.

See about the same with the turbo now, nothing over 140 ever in 90* heat.

BTW, I useed the heat exchanger off my old cobra, you can probable pick one up cheap at svtperformance.com

[GrimRT]

I just dynoed 537/606 with an M1 2bbl... and a 52mm TB. On 10 psi, 22* timing. 408ci, 218/228-114, 9.3:1, ported eddy heads, A/W intercooler, 76mm Tnetics rear mounted turbo at PIE. Chris built the motor, I did everything else.

My point is, you can still make plenty of power with the M1 2bbl if thats what you already got. Im never going over those numbers, ever, my poor TKO600 is only rated at just that, 600, and Im certainly putting more than that through it now as it is.

http://www.modularmustangracing.com/prod_trans_drive.htm

[mtlcafan79]

Not so sure about those guys. I remember somebody blew up one of those at power levels well below what they advertised it being able to hold.

[GrimRT]

Not so sure about those guys. I remember somebody blew up one of those at power levels well below what they advertised it being able to hold.

hmmm, good to know. I guess a T56 would be the way to go then. I'm pretty sure Rockland Gear does a similar TKO setup though.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

frozenboost.com

dropped my intake temps from 210-220 with the vortech down to 110-120.

See about the same with the turbo now, nothing over 140 ever in 90* heat.

BTW, I useed the heat exchanger off my old cobra, you can probable pick one up cheap at svtperformance.com

Is this the one you used?

http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=218&products_id=214&osCsid=d0eed142d5405c5177dacb6cc73f7a5f

[perfinj]

Hey Jason I enjoy hearing customers that like my products and I appreciate your feedback. If you see anywhere I can improve the kit I always like customer feedback, please let me know. As far as using the dyno I really can't after 5:00 o'clock. My neighbors are nice and I respect the fact that 5:00 o'clock on is time people are with their families, and don't want to hear a bunch of noise. That dyno sheet in my office is true. Going from the 2 to 4 bbl is no difference. That is why your truck did not pick up at the track. As for the person that commented on the header wrap that wrap is inferno wrap not regular fiberglass header wrap. It is designed for turbo applications and I have been using it for many years. It's opperational temperature is 3000 degrees and the pretty sleve over that is 1100 degrees. I have actually had one of my workers make a pull with the truck and my hand is on the turbo and the down pipe. It is warm but only about 100 degrees. That is how the wires and plastic bottle are not a pile of goo. any help you need or any questions do not hesitate to call. I am more than happy to assist with the install and tuning. Look forward to hearing from you.

Thank you
Chris
Performance Injection Eq

[dakfink]

Chris,

Thanks for stepping in and explaining your product and what you use. I think many of the come and gone venders would have been around a lot longer if they had approached things the way you seem to.

I had used wraps in the past (fiberglass based) only complaint I had with them is they caused rusting on regular steel (easy cure; ceramic coat the pipes) and they became fragile after some time. But the wraps that have come along since trubos have hit the main stream seem to be pretty durable.

As for the Intakes I won't go there again. The intake has to fit the application and obviously the 2bbl fit.

Only suggestion I would make on the turbo kit is, Set up your page that shows all the options available and the added pricing.

Granted I know some options you may not want to sell online, but rather handle inhouse because of tuning and fabrication issues that need to be handled on a 1 by 1 basis. Like BIGGER turbos and intercoolers than the base kit has. You could list those as in-house options.

I think your kit would finally bring everything full circle for the Dakota and Mopar performance world. All the whining I hear of how the F&C guys have this and that and we Mopar guys don't. And they can just mail order it and we can't. I think this would be the last BIG step to close the deal for Mopar.

Race blocks available= Check
Off the shelf Performance Cranks, rods, Pistons = Check
Good flowing Aluminum heads= Check
Custom Tuning= Check
Supercharger= Check
Turbo Kit= (please fill this blank)

Your base kit looks really good and for the price you have on you webpage Flips the coin on that days of people going supercharged for the cost!!!

Most base kit SC (no tuning included) are that much +.

Great Job and Great Pricing!!!

[Blak92]

Is this the one you used?

http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=218&products_id=214&osCsid=d0eed142d5405c5177dacb6cc73f7a5f

Yup, fit just fine for me.

[Five9Dak]

Is it done yet?

[RobbyD]

You didn't get that shit on Ebay for $5,000?

[mtlcafan79]

He's missing the HRE's too.

[2k1AmberR/T]

I went ahead and put the downpipe in place and put the charge pipe on just for fun. It is starting to look like something. I was hoping to be completely finished tomorrow but it looks like Wednesday might be the very earliest now, and that'll be limiting me to driving without entering boost due to not having the wideband hooked up just yet, or the rest of the exhaust system.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Damnit I didnt know you were updating the front page post. haha. I was waiting for pictures on the last pages. Looking very nice.

Everything looks like its fitting pretty well. What header gaskets are they? Also, I am going to go with totally stainless header bolts from ARP, supposed to be guaranteed not to back out. So would just need to check and make sure the gasket does not compress much.

[perfinj]

Hey Dave the kit already comes with stainless header bolts. Come on now I could not build a 304 stainless header kit and use 2 dollar steel bolts.

[Duner]

The kit looks very nice!

How big is the downpipe?

[ADakotaRTGuy]

Hey Dave the kit already comes with stainless header bolts. Come on now I could not build a 304 stainless header kit and use 2 dollar steel bolts.

Stop stalking me, haha. The ones I was talking about are not just regular SS bolts, not sure what you include in the kit, but these are locking.

http://image.streetrodderweb.com/f/tech/1005sr_locking_fasteners_myths_procrastination_som ething_new/33048132+pheader_460x1000/1005sr_01_z+locking_fasteners+.jpg

[2k1AmberR/T]

The ones I got did not have locking washers like that but they are ARP stainless bolts.

Duner - 3" downpipe.

More pictures to come today, still probably won't be finished but it'll be damn close. I'm working 12 hour days the next two days but I'll have Friday off so it should definitely be finished this week, with the exception of the exhaust piping after the downpipe.

[ADakotaRTGuy]

The ones I got did not have locking washers like that but they are ARP stainless bolts.

Well once again impressed.

[2k1AmberR/T]

Here's a teaser photo.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/blahblah017.jpg

Alright, time to get to work.

[jmaack727]

neato.

[WhiteRT]

Here's a teaser photo.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/blahblah017.jpg

Alright, time to get to work.

That looks DAMN close to the pcm....is it just the picture?

Todd

[Five9Dak]

Yeh it looks like no easy PCM resets for you. I guess it's not a bad price to pay though.

[WhiteRT]

Yeh it looks like no easy PCM resets for you. I guess it's not a bad price to pay though.

That and hopefully it doesnt melt the PCM plugs/overheat the PCM.

It may just be the pic - but it looks damn close to it.

Todd

[perfinj]

Hey guys how would the cold side discharge melt the pcm plugs.

[2k1AmberR/T]

There's absolutely no way the charge pipe should get hot enough to melt anything. It didn't seem too close to me, it has to be 2-3" or so away. Resetting the pcm is as easy as disconnecting the negative battery terminal, that's how I've always done it anyway.

I didn't really get a lot done today, just basically got the hot side all cinched down and the front of the engine back together. Early bed time to prepare for 12 hour days coming up. The headers were time consuming to get tight. Not difficult, just tedious.

[BryanRT360]

Hey guys how would the cold side discharge melt the pcm plugs.

Speaking of cold side.. what kinda iat's do you see? I was seeing 185 with the vortech before I installed the meth.

[2k1AmberR/T]

Speaking of cold side.. what kinda iat's do you see? I was seeing 185 with the vortech before I installed the meth.

How much did the meth help?

[WhiteRT]

Hey guys how would the cold side discharge melt the pcm plugs.

It literally looks like there is 1/4" clearance from the pictures so thats why I asked - these PCMs are quite easy to cook a variety of ways. Just figured I would ask....the pic is obviously deceiving. Jason said there is a few inches of clearance so no issues :)

I know you know what you are doing :)

Todd

[bfranzel]

Hey guys how would the cold side discharge melt the pcm plugs.

i would hope that the cold side didnt melt the pcm plugs. if it was hot enough to do that i wouldnt want that being pushed into my engine. its not like the exhaust is being slammed threw it!

[BryanRT360]

Honestly don't know.. haven't logged since. It does feel stronger though. I assume due to a much cooler iat.. its just been too hot for me to becomfortable enough to be in boost throughout the entire rpm range..

[perfinj]

Even if it was right up on the pcm figure the pipe temp could get to 175 degrees. when you are driving down the road the air is moving in the engine compartment. I could see if the down pipe was touching the pcm that could be a problem. We have not seen any problems when we were testing these kits. as for the IAT I typically see about 140-165 degrees on a couple of repeated pulls on the dyno. Again it will be a little warmer on the dyno as there is no air to cool over the pipe. I have a liquid intercooler setup I am working on and will be avaliable this fall for my kits.

[White Turbo]

As long as you keep anything made of plastic at least 1" to 1.5 " away from the cold side, nothing will melt.

I have a wiring harness that runs about 1.5" away from the compressor.
I had a zip tie break once, which allowed the harness to get within 3/4" ....
Started to melt the outer convoluted tubing.
Zip tied it away, and have never had a problem with it in 6 years.

[RobbyD]

It's already Thursday. Pick up the pace.

[2k1AmberR/T]

I've lost all motivation to get this done for reasons I care not to share. Hopefully it'll run and have a complete exhaust system sometime this weekend.

[RobbyD]

I've lost all motivation to get this done for reasons I care not to share. Hopefully it'll run and have a complete exhaust system sometime this weekend.

I'm sure it's something a few PBR's can fix! :beer:

[mtlcafan79]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnR1P022qUk

NSFW if you have the volume up!

[bfranzel]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnR1P022qUk

NSFW if you have the volume up!

ill take that into consideration next time i visit the folks in michigan:jester:

[GrimRT]

I love PBRs. Its 6.9% up here and cheap too.

[mtlcafan79]

The best PBR I've had is on tap at a local bar here in Baltimore. Up until then I didn't know you could even get it other than in a can! Anyways, they have what they call a Blue on Blue. It's an oyster shooter with a Blue Point Oyster, PBR, and a little hot sauce/horseradish. Yummy.

[ME111]

The best PBR I've had is on tap at a local bar here in Baltimore. Up until then I didn't know you could even get it other than in a can! Anyways, they have what they call a Blue on Blue. It's an oyster shooter with a Blue Point Oyster, PBR, and a little hot sauce/horseradish. Yummy.

Dude if ever I leave my wife, I would be willing to pay you an hourly rate(minimum wage :D) to be my tour guide of the finer things around the area. I've been here about 18 years now and feel very deprived.

EDIT: Expenses included, of course.

[mtlcafan79]

Jack Williams is coming to Annapolis in October. He's getting the wings and beer tour. The tour of the Naval Academy is just there to walk off the buzz. haha

[Pete102580]

PBR is known around here as 'child molester beer' lol

[ME111]

PBR is known around here as 'child molester beer' lol

Uhm...let's not confuse that with my offer to Sean....MMMKKKKK!!

[2k1AmberR/T]

I'm going to get some new gauges and while I'm at it I'm going to grab some exhaust system pieces. They won't be here until next week so the truck won't be done and on the road until next week. So there really won't be any updates any time soon. Grab a snickers, it'll be a while before I post videos, dyno numbers, and track times. The weekend of the 25th most likely since that is my next weekend off work and the truck will be finished by then. I'll probably head straight up to PIE for dyno tuning and then straight to MIR for 1/4 mile drag racing and then I'll have pictures/videos/numbers from both before and after.

[2k1AmberR/T]

Jack Williams is coming to Annapolis in October. He's getting the wings and beer tour. The tour of the Naval Academy is just there to walk off the buzz. haha

I wish it was as easy as walking off a buzz for me sometimes. Once I've started drinking the only thing more time adds to the equation is more buzz. :woot:

[bfranzel]

I wish it was as easy as walking off a buzz for me sometimes. Once I've started drinking the only thing more time adds to the equation is more buzz. :woot:

its a mathmatical equation. time=beer+time squared

[ME111]

I wish it was as easy as walking off a buzz for me sometimes. Once I've started drinking the only thing more time adds to the equation is more buzz. :woot:

Hahaha!! Reminds me of the need to pick up some shaving cream, a fully charged vid camera, and a feather for the next time you're over.

[Intense RT]

Hahaha!! Reminds me of the need to pick up some shaving cream, a fully charged vid camera, and a feather for the next time you're over.
LOL, there's two ways that could go....:jester: Prank or just plain gay and kinky...:nana:

[RobbyD]

Is this done yet? Gawd, take for evar!

[2k1AmberR/T]

It was originally only supposed to take a few days. Will be on the skreetz this week though! I couldn't stand white gauges, black will look so much nicer. Worth waiting an extra week, for sure.

[2k1AmberR/T]

Alright so it won't be on the street this week, I was wrong. I won't have all of my v-bands until Friday and the exhaust shop is closed on Friday, and already booked for Monday/Tuesday. So it won't be done until Wednesday...but I'll post more complete pictures (minus the exhaust piping) later this week when the gauges show up.

[KTK00R/T]

update?!

[2k1AmberR/T]

Fuck updates. I have my gauges and v-bands and o2 bungs now...just have to install them and get the exhaust finished up on Wednesday. I'll update then, or Thursday. For now I'm busy riding my mountain bike. I actually have a question about the wastegate that I need to call Chris about tomorrow anyway.

[ME111]

Fuck updates. I have my gauges and v-bands and o2 bungs now...just have to install them and get the exhaust finished up on Wednesday. I'll update then, or Thursday. For now I'm busy riding my mountain bike. I actually have a question about the wastegate that I need to call Chris about tomorrow anyway.

May I have the honor of video taping your first "FINAL TUNE" run? Both from the roadside and from the passenger seat.

[2k1AmberR/T]

Definitely. I'll even supply the camcorder. I'm thinking Friday it should be ready. Wednesday evening at the very earliest, but that is only if everything works out as it is supposed to.

[sunike32]

Definitely. I'll even supply the camcorder. I'm thinking Friday it should be ready. Wednesday evening at the very earliest, but that is only if everything works out as it is supposed to.

You should know by now that it rarely does haha

[ME111]

Definitely. I'll even supply the camcorder. I'm thinking Friday it should be ready. Wednesday evening at the very earliest, but that is only if everything works out as it is supposed to.

Nice!!! I don't know about Joplin road if it's dark though. I know that road pretty good but twisties and darkness don't go hand in hand for a "noobie" but if you insist then you should be holding the camcorder..LOL

[KTK00R/T]

Fuck updates.

yeah! :jester:

[Five9Dak]

Is this POS done yet?

[2k1AmberR/T]

Tomorrow it goes to the exhaust shop. Then I'll have more pictures and videos of it if it runs right. I'd imagine the tune I have from Chris is pretty damn close, close enough to drive it anyway. If not I'll have to work with him to get it right but that shouldn't take too long. But I won't know for sure until I get this exhaust system installed so I can put the wideband in...so hopefully tomorrow night I'll have some good news.

[2k1AmberR/T]

Updated the fifth post with some new pics.

[1evilrt]

Looks good Jason, have you fired it yet?:hail:

[2k1AmberR/T]

Tomorrow. I'll be picking up T clamps to replace those hose clamps with on Thursday also.

[1evilrt]

Jason, its tomorrow! Fire that bitch

[sunike32]

Jason, its tomorrow! Fire that bitch

IAWTP :rockwoot:

[2k1AmberR/T]

Jason, its tomorrow! Fire that bitch

I get home around 4 today so don't expect much until a few hours after that.

[2k1AmberR/T]

I made a teaser update to post #6, I'll be back tonight for more.

[1evilrt]

I made a teaser update to post #6, I'll be back tonight for more.

BEULER............BUELER..........BUELER

[rt dak]

Looking good dude, i'm jealous. Finally got my bellhousing today BTW.

[sunike32]

Looking good dude, i'm jealous. Finally got my bellhousing today BTW.


nv4500? Did you have to find one and send it to Keisler?

[rt dak]

nv4500? Did you have to find one and send it to Keisler?

Don't wanna threadjack too much, but Keisler finally came through. Compared it to pictures of NV4500 housing i've found online and it looks to be what it is.

[RobbyD]

Don't wanna threadjack too much, but Keisler finally came through. Compared it to pictures of NV4500 housing i've found online and it looks to be what it is.

That's because it is a NV4500 bell housing, off an '94-04 360 Ram 2500/3500 Gas job.

[2k1AmberR/T]

They (finally) came through for you because you paid for a whole transmission kit from them. They wouldn't sell me a bellhousing without the transmission basically, well it wasn't worth their time to track down a bellhousing to modify for me is basically what they've said. I'm glad you got your shit though! I'm equally as glad I got my money back after 2 months of nonsense. Never again. I guess I'm stuck with an auto. I basically told the guy on the phone to fuck off because if I can't get a 350 dollar product or a refund in a 2 month period of time there's NO WAY I'm going to send them another 2200 dollars for another product that I may or may not see. I can't give Keisler an interest free 2500 dollar loan over an unknown period of time, sorry Shafi.

Pictures added to post #6.

[rt dak]

They (finally) came through for you because you paid for a whole transmission kit from them. They wouldn't sell me a bellhousing without the transmission basically, well it wasn't worth their time to track down a bellhousing to modify for me is basically what they've said. I'm glad you got your shit though! I'm equally as glad I got my money back after 2 months of nonsense. Never again. I guess I'm stuck with an auto. I basically told the guy on the phone to fuck off because if I can't get a 350 dollar product or a refund in a 2 month period of time there's NO WAY I'm going to send them another 2200 dollars for another product that I may or may not see. I can't give Keisler an interest free 2500 dollar loan over an unknown period of time, sorry Shafi.

I guess, but it still took me over 2 months to get it. He said they had a bunch of them there. Also told me they're stopping production of the Dakota kit. Who knows, hopefully someone else starts producing one.

[2k1AmberR/T]

I guess, but it still took me over 2 months to get it. He said they had a bunch of them there. Also told me they're stopping production of the Dakota kit. Who knows, hopefully someone else starts producing one.

Although I'd really love to have one...I don't think it will ever happen. At least not in this truck. I might need to find a 99 or something...so I can avoid check engine lights and get through emissions testing.

[Last_in]

Looking good, Jason! Patiently awaiting videos!!

[GrimRT]

is your WG recirculated or is vented into the engine bay?

[2k1AmberR/T]

is your WG recirculated or is vented into the engine bay?

It vents to the engine bay. There's a blowdown tube but only a few inches long. Looks cool enough for me to use it though, and it directs the wastegate toward the firewall so maybe it'll sound cooler than an open wastegate from inside the cab? I don't know. You can see it in two of the pictures I posted in post #5 I believe.

[2k1AmberR/T]

Looking good, Jason! Patiently awaiting videos!!

Tomorrow :( I'm going to grab a new distributor cap and rotor on my way home from work tomorrow, I still have to change oil, connect the battery, load the new tune, fire it up and fill the radiator/burp it, and I have to wrap the downpipe and put the heat shield on the exhaust turbine, and.................I think that's it? I hope the tune is close enough for me to be able to drive it, otherwise it may not be video worthy until this weekend. I also have some t-clamps to replace the hose clamps with which I'll need to do tomorrow. Oh yeah, I need to connect the vacuum lines to the blowoff valve and wastegate tomorrow. They aren't connected right now. And...........the gauges need to be wired up still, and interior put back together. I hope I have enough time tomorrow to do all of that crap? Hahaha.

[2k1AmberR/T]

I've found while doing this that my heater core is bad :( I do not feel like fixing it right now though. I want to drive it and enjoy it and I'll get to the heater core...sooner than later, that's for sure. But I'm not looking forward to it.

[Five9Dak]

Loop the coolant lines where they go into the firewall for now, but you're going to want a working heater real soon.

[Last_in]

Tomorrow :( I'm going to grab a new distributor cap and rotor on my way home from work tomorrow, I still have to change oil, connect the battery, load the new tune, fire it up and fill the radiator/burp it, and I have to wrap the downpipe and put the heat shield on the exhaust turbine, and.................I think that's it? I hope the tune is close enough for me to be able to drive it, otherwise it may not be video worthy until this weekend. I also have some t-clamps to replace the hose clamps with which I'll need to do tomorrow. Oh yeah, I need to connect the vacuum lines to the blowoff valve and wastegate tomorrow. They aren't connected right now. And...........the gauges need to be wired up still, and interior put back together. I hope I have enough time tomorrow to do all of that crap? Hahaha.


Sounds like a day full of work. Good luck! Do you have to prime the turbo for the first start or anything?

[Sick 660r]

hurry the fuck up:D

[LemonGlowR/T]

Yea hurry up my fathers truck needs chris to install a new stock motor in it too

[BluRT00]

Looking good. :biggthumpup:

[ME111]

I've found while doing this that my heater core is bad :( I do not feel like fixing it right now though. I want to drive it and enjoy it and I'll get to the heater core...sooner than later, that's for sure. But I'm not looking forward to it.

I need to do mine as well Jason so when you're ready to do yours let me know. Pulling the dash from the old R/T last month taught me a thing or two with the process to make it easier. Will be a lot easier with four hands vice just two as well.

[KTK00R/T]

This build has just become my next depending on how it turns out. I'm done with the belt slip issue on the KB...

[GrimRT]

I would get that WG gases running into your DP. That is going to be one stinky, vile, mess in your engine bay after awhile.

[2k1AmberR/T]

Yea hurry up my fathers truck needs chris to install a new stock motor in it too

My turbo install in my garage has nothing to do with Chris working on your fathers truck. I'm not tying up his hands at all, if you require his service give him a call.

This build has just become my next depending on how it turns out. I'm done with the belt slip issue on the KB...

Depending on how it turns out? He's got two of these systems out on the road already...

http://api.ning.com/files/mo4XbGrSFostcKsK3YXS0YgfJpZHOxlkZEIp*Rpei*cbpOeVs-u6bB-8DYtHOmn-EYxmkb8d*isHp*jV0dOzb-osKzKb775q/Turboruns.bmp

[2k1AmberR/T]

:insert Jaws shark attack sound effects here please and thank you:

[1evilrt]

:goodluck:

[KTK00R/T]

Depending on how it turns out? He's got two of these systems out on the road already...

http://api.ning.com/files/mo4XbGrSFostcKsK3YXS0YgfJpZHOxlkZEIp*Rpei*cbpOeVs-u6bB-8DYtHOmn-EYxmkb8d*isHp*jV0dOzb-osKzKb775q/Turboruns.bmp

didn't know that. This is the first "build" I've seen with this kit.

[2k1AmberR/T]

didn't know that. This is the first "build" I've seen with this kit.

Well, I'm the first to buy the Dakota kit, that's why. The other 2 are on Rams. It won't be long before you see a few more of these pop up, I'm sure. The dyno results and testing he's done with the Ram I think are very very impressive. The price is only a little higher than blower kits used to be, but look at what is included vs. blower kits! SCT wasn't even available back when the blower kits were designed for these trucks so you can't hold that against companies like Kenne Bell or Paxton or Vortech or whoever, but Chris includes it with his own tunes tailored for your truck in the turbo kit. You simply can't beat that. On top of that his customer service is leaps and bounds beyond most other Dakota parts vendors. I feel like this is an all around superior choice. Literally everything you need is included with this kit. The only things I changed were the gauge pod and the hose clamps on the charge pipe. I did this simply due to my preferences but everything he includes works just fine. And the power levels you can reach with this stage 1 kit are much higher than any blower I've ever seen on our trucks. Most blowers designed for stock trucks were still in the high 200 horsepower range and depending on the head unit itself you might not be able to get much higher than 450 or so. I think the other Ram customer with this same kit is already making over 500whp and I'd bet that's at or near 10 pounds which really isn't much. So in essence you get a quality kit that is dynamic enough for a stock truck or a stroker, for mild or wild, incredible customer service, no belt slip, no tuning issue, competitively priced with other forced induction methods. Plus the power gains are hard to beat.

Alright, enough sounding like a sales pitch. I'm just happy as hell and can't wait to post some videos for you guys to see! Only 2 hours of work left, then I'll come home to wrap it up. Change oil, fill coolant, downpipe needs two v-bands tightened, o2 sensors need to be plugged in, and I need to load the new tune. So close!

[KTK00R/T]

Thats exactly why I'm looking at the kit. I have most of everything needed except the hard parts but the contents for the price is amazing. So this becomes a huge upgrade from where I am now. I've already sent a pm.

[Five9Dak]

FYI I posted how my idler pulleys were setup, and I've never had an issue with belt slip on the KB.

[2k1AmberR/T]

Should have a video in about an hour?

[Five9Dak]

Should you?

[2k1AmberR/T]

So I'm getting a code, p0108, apparently I botched my map sensor installation? That or the sensor itself is bad, but it is brand new so I'd like to think that isn't the problem (at this point). So I'll have to look into that tomorrow. Additionally, it is running like shit, the a/f is about 10.0 at idle and the oil pressure isn't very high at all...kinda scary low. I just put 6 fresh quarts in it though. Anyway, I was hoping to burp the radiator and test drive it tonight but my test drive didn't make it out of the driveway. Not with idle the way it is...even if it was idling right it is dumping way too much fuel so I'll need to call Chris tomorrow, unfortunately I don't think he works weekends.

[BryanRT360]

So I'm getting a code, p0108, apparently I botched my map sensor installation? So I'll have to look into that tomorrow. Additionally, it is running like shit, the a/f is about 10.0 at idle and the oil pressure isn't very high at all...kinda scary low. I just put 6 fresh quarts in it though. Anyway, I was hoping to burp the radiator and test drive it tonight but my test drive didn't make it out of the driveway. Not with idle the way it is...even if it was idling right it is dumping way too much fuel so I'll need to call Chris tomorrow, unfortunately I don't think he works weekends.

Got a volt meter? C is 12v, B signal, A ground.

[2k1AmberR/T]

It is about 9pm and I'm done fucking with it for tonight. But I'll take a look at it tomorrow. Unfortunately I work tomorrow, too. So I don't know what I'll get accomplished. I don't know if I can even get a new tune from Chris until Monday anyway. First I thought it might be right from all the fuel that dumped out of my rails when I swapped injectors that ran down into the holes in the intake. It ran for a few minutes though, I figured what was left of that fuel should have been burned by now. But it is still rich as hell.

Oh, and I have a BAD exhaust leak somewhere. Sounds like the drivers side header but I really hope not. I hope it is the v-band but it sounds terrible wherever it is.

[ME111]

Patience my friend, patience. Polish something if you have to wait til Monday.

[2k1AmberR/T]

Yeah, I'm not really stressing it. I have to work tomorrow, possibly Sunday as well, and I have to help a friend after work tomorrow that is preparing for a wedding. And I'm trying to fix a dirtbike so I can flip it. Then I can afford a new fuel system for this bitch for moar boosts if I choose to go that route.

I've done some google searching and I've found that a bad map sensor has caused a terrible idle and rich condition...I'm wondering if that's my only issue at this point? Along with needing to burp the radiator and fix that stupid exhaust leak. Has anyone else here ever experienced a p0108 code before? Map sensor voltage high?

[Five9Dak]

Well if it's not getting reasonable MAP readings, you can't expect it to fuel or spark correctly. That is the most important sensor for speed density. It'll work out. Don't drive it with the AFRs like that, or you'll need to change the oil again.

[2k1AmberR/T]

Well if it's not getting reasonable MAP readings, you can't expect it to fuel or spark correctly. That is the most important sensor for speed density. It'll work out. Don't drive it with the AFRs like that, or you'll need to change the oil again.

Cool shit, thanks for your input. I definitely haven't driven it, I started it, pulled it out of the garage since I knew it was going to let off some smoke from the brand new dirty/oily pipes, and when I saw it reading no higher than 10.9 and at low points the gauge was flashing at me...I shut it off immediately. I started it back up to get it back into the garage but that's it.

[perfinj]

Hey Jason I saw your post. I am working saturday for a while. I will walk you through the sensor wiring. If the sensor is not wired right the tune can not function. Don't sweat it.

[2k1AmberR/T]

Hey Jason I saw your post. I am working saturday for a while. I will walk you through the sensor wiring. If the sensor is not wired right the tune can not funstion. Don't sweat it.

Cool shit, thanks. I'll write down my wire colors and bring them to work with me. I usually don't have cell phone service, especially on weekends I'll be in a basement or parking garage or something, but when I get a chance (if I do) I'll try to call you early on. I didn't get to test them with a voltmeter tonight since it was dark by the time I got the battery connected and I decided enough was enough, but I can/will check that tomorrow when I get home for sure.

[2k1AmberR/T]

Got a volt meter? C is 12v, B signal, A ground.

I have 1, 2, 3. Not a, b, c. On the stock map connector, the black one.

[ME111]

I have 1, 2, 3. Not a, b, c. On the stock map connector, the black one.

Up early eh?

[BryanRT360]

I have 1, 2, 3. Not a, b, c. On the stock map connector, the black one.

i'm talking about your 2-bar. if you hooked it up wrong its probably fried.. get a voltmeter

[BluRT00]

I have 1, 2, 3. Not a, b, c. On the stock map connector, the black one.

What year is the truck? 01?

[2k1AmberR/T]

Well guys, Jim (me111) was nice enough to let me borrow his 2 bar for the time being. I'm splicing it in right now and going to try again. This time the wires are correct! LOL! I'll report back...but I may be too drunk to post videos tonight. I just want to see the damn thing run.

[2k1AmberR/T]

Well with the map wired wrongly it wouldn't idle for shit, was running very rough and rich as hell, pegging 10.0 and lower. The gauge was flashing. Now that I've fixed it the truck idles great, sounds good, looks good, whatever...but it is pegging 20.0 and flashing at me, haha! What a bummer.

[2k1AmberR/T]

Well I'm glad the new map sensor fixed it. I know I fried the old one and need a new one. But now the a/f at idle and slow cruising (like doing a u-turn or backing up or whatever) is way too high, pegging 20.0+ but giving it throttle there seems to be enough fuel. Weird. I drove it up my street maybe 500 yards or so, I can't hear the turbo at all either under the hood or at the tailpipe so I was worried it wasn't spooling or something. I revved it up pretty good in the driveway and still the vacuum didn't even reach 0. So I thought it would need a load to build boost and I was right. Coming up a hill at about half throttle I eventually creeped into boost (and heard it) and immediately let off, the blowoff valve works :) And holy hell boost is amazing, that felt ridiculously amazing. My a/f as I let off was 11.5 so that sounds about right.

What is the best way to datalog? I don't have any datalogging capabilities at this time, my a/f gauge does not support it either. I'd rather not have to buy a damn lm-2 but I guess I will if I have to. Anyone have any other suggestions?

[ME111]

Surprised no one has piped in yet. You should already know this but here goes...

Other than taking baby steps with the rpm/throttle position, you will need something like that or a dyno to datalog. Without a datalogger/dyno and with a little patience, you can dial it in slowly with updated tunes from Sean until you get it ALL right.

Really only 6 major things to dial in with the A/F(Combination of Fuel and Timing):

1. Initial Startup/Idle (Cold to Warm)..this is timed with steps of idle rpm.
2. Idle at operating temp(P/D)
3. Cruise
4. Part Throttle
5. Decel
6. WOT

There are other things to fine-tune but those are the big ones.

Some things to take note of including engine temp for Sean in case he hasn't given you any instructs yet:

1. What is the A/F and RPM when you cold start it?
2. How much time elapses before the RPM drops to desired idle RPM?
3. What is the A/F when you reach the desired idle RPM(both in Park and Drive)?
4. What is the A/F at part throttle and cruise? These should be around 14.7 or richer depending on throttle position.
5. What is the A/F when you let off the gas and hit the brakes be it from part throttle or cruise? These should also be around 14.7 or a bit higher but not more than 16 IMO. Some claim that having a leaner A/F on decel saves gas over time but screw that IMO. Touch base with Sean on that one all the same.

Good luck and BE PATIENT Jason!

[White Turbo]

Well I'm glad the new map sensor fixed it. I know I fried the old one and need a new one. But now the a/f at idle and slow cruising (like doing a u-turn or backing up or whatever) is way too high, pegging 20.0+ but giving it throttle there seems to be enough fuel. Weird. I drove it up my street maybe 500 yards or so, I can't hear the turbo at all either under the hood or at the tailpipe so I was worried it wasn't spooling or something. I revved it up pretty good in the driveway and still the vacuum didn't even reach 0. So I thought it would need a load to build boost and I was right. Coming up a hill at about half throttle I eventually creeped into boost (and heard it) and immediately let off, the blowoff valve works :) And holy hell boost is amazing, that felt ridiculously amazing. My a/f as I let off was 11.5 so that sounds about right.

What is the best way to datalog? I don't have any datalogging capabilities at this time, my a/f gauge does not support it either. I'd rather not have to buy a damn lm-2 but I guess I will if I have to. Anyone have any other suggestions?

:jester:
:D
:biggthumpup:

[2k1AmberR/T]

:jester:
:D
:biggthumpup:

Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha! Holy fuck! I probably only saw a few psi (like 5psi isn't enough) but DAMN! Felt awesome, surprised acceleration so fast doesn't break traction. I can't wait to hammer on it knowing it is safe. First I thought 5psi would be a tease but now I almost think it is overkill for what I'm doing. It was more like nitrous than boost (according to my imagination) hahaha. Suddenly out of nowhere at 2500ish rpm it went out of control fast. As soon as it took off I let off. Videos are incoming, I just need the a/f at idle and cruising to be closer to 15 instead of above 20.

[White Turbo]

Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha! Holy fuck! I probably only saw a few psi (like 5psi isn't enough) but DAMN! Felt awesome, surprised acceleration so fast doesn't break traction. I can't wait to hammer on it knowing it is safe. First I thought 5psi would be a tease but now I almost think it is overkill for what I'm doing. It was more like nitrous than boost (according to my imagination) hahaha. Suddenly out of nowhere at 2500ish rpm it went out of control fast. As soon as it took off I let off. Videos are incoming, I just need the a/f at idle and cruising to be closer to 15 instead of above 20.

Hmmm... That sure does sound a lot like a PM I sent you a while back !

Like I said before.... Welcome to the dark side Jason !
:burnout:
I'll bet you have a shit eatin' grin from ear to ear:nana:

[G-Man]

Your Enthusiasm makes me want a Turbo kit, Bad.
sorry if this has already been asked, but is that the $5000. kit on P.I.E. website?

[grapejuice1998]

No shit. I'm jealous!
I ain't droppin $5k on it to cure my jealousy, but I AM jealous!:biggthumpup:

[2k1AmberR/T]

Here are my only 2 rather disappointing videos. Fun stuff is coming though, I promise.

Here is my initial startup. Bad exhaust leak, bad map sensor.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/th_f0db921a.jpg (http://s34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/?action=view&current=f0db921a.mp4)

Here is a video the next day, exhaust not leaking nearly as bad, new map sensor. The oil pressure is low but it improved tremendously later on, and the a/f at idle is crazy high. It also seems to have a low vacuum signal compared to the other video which I'm unsure of why. That might have something to do with why it runs so rough, or perhaps it is a by product of whatever is causing it to idle so shittily. I don't know. It could also just be the angle of the camera on the magnified gauge lens.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/th_78a04abc.jpg (http://s34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/?action=view&current=78a04abc.mp4)

I'm going to tighten up the headers a little more today, get some of the vacuum lines and shit away from the headers as far as possible (this shit gets HOT!) and a few other little things.

[Sick 660r]

I hope that low oil pressure is just a bad sending unit

[2k1AmberR/T]

I have all kinds of oil pressure now. Weird. I have a small exhaust leak to fix and the turbo/downpipe are still smoking constantly. I'm assuming all of the heat wrap and oily residue on the exhaust turbine are just burning off and it will come to an end eventually.

[2k1AmberR/T]

Another video. Idling a bit low. The tensioner looks happy!

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/th_28bc5e7e.jpg (http://s34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/?action=view&current=28bc5e7e.mp4)

[KTK00R/T]

Wild that its that lean...

[Intense RT]

Not dumping fuel is it? The exhaust smell concurs with the A/F reading iow.

[2k1AmberR/T]

Wild that its that lean...

The map sensor I'm currently using is a bit different than the map sensor he includes with the kit. His tune was made to be used with his map sensor, so since I changed to a different one the tune is off slightly. I'll be uploading a new tune soon though and then it is time for a real test drive. And some more videos that are actually worth watching.

[BryanRT360]

The map sensor I'm currently using is a bit different than the map sensor he includes with the kit. His tune was made to be used with his map sensor, so since I changed to a different one the tune is off slightly. I'll be uploading a new tune soon though and then it is time for a real test drive. And some more videos that are actually worth watching.

whats the difference between the 2-bars? difference is signal voltage?? the tune cant be that far off can it?

[2k1AmberR/T]

whats the difference between the 2-bars? difference is signal voltage?? the tune cant be that far off can it?

The tune isn't very far off, I just don't like it idling at 20.0 afr. I'd prefer it was closer to 14.7 like it is supposed to be. At partial throttle and in boost the afr seems to be fine, it is just idle/slow cruising that is way far off.

[BryanRT360]

The tune isn't very far off, I just don't like it idling at 20.0 afr. I'd prefer it was closer to 14.7 like it is supposed to be. At partial throttle and in boost the afr seems to be fine, it is just idle/slow cruising that is way far off.

is this after warm up? shouldn't it be reading the o2's

[Sick 660r]

is this after warm up? shouldn't it be reading the o2's

o2's are normally turned off with sct and boost

[BryanRT360]

o didnt know. so in that case what does that do to the ready-ness monitors for obdII testing?

[2k1AmberR/T]

o didnt know. so in that case what does that do to the ready-ness monitors for obdII testing?

It probably won't pass.

[KTK00R/T]

The tune isn't very far off, I just don't like it idling at 20.0 afr. I'd prefer it was closer to 14.7 like it is supposed to be. At partial throttle and in boost the afr seems to be fine, it is just idle/slow cruising that is way far off.

I thought a 2bar is a 2bar? they have diff voltages?

[Sick 660r]

o didnt know. so in that case what does that do to the ready-ness monitors for obdII testing?

fail lol

[sunike32]

o2's are normally turned off with sct and boost

Turned off all the time, or only when boost kicks in? Always off seems like, uhh, no one would pass emissions? :jester:

[2k1AmberR/T]

Turned off all the time, or only when boost kicks in? Always off seems like, uhh, no one would pass emissions? :jester:

They're always off. If they were on when you were in boost at partial throttle your computer would try to find 14.7 and POP! Haha.

[Sick 660r]

Turned off all the time, or only when boost kicks in? Always off seems like, uhh, no one would pass emissions? :jester:

yup, always off.

[2k1AmberR/T]

Well I can't even upload any new tunes because my computer is a piece of fuck. And I blew out a header gasket BAD today. So it looks like it probably won't be on the road for another week. This is bullshit. I need this damn thing back on the road right now.

[Five9Dak]

I dunno what PIE recommended but I like the remflex gaskets alot now that I tried them.

Im not surprised the extremely low load portions of the map are harder to dial in, thats the nature of different map sensors and larger injectors whose latency is different than the pcm expects.

Crazy how much even a little a boost gives it a kick in the ass eh? (especially down low :-P )

[2k1AmberR/T]

Yeah, I ordered some Remflex. I don't have the money to overnight them but I don't have the time to wait 3-5 days or however long it is going to take to get them. Plus I have to work weekends to be able to afford shit like this. Fucking dumb. I'm upset beyond belief right now.

[bfranzel]

Well I can't even upload any new tunes because my computer is a piece of fuck. And I blew out a header gasket BAD today. So it looks like it probably won't be on the road for another week. This is bullshit. I need this damn thing back on the road right now.

lol i know what you are going threw. patients does pay

[mtlcafan79]

Rule #1. Do not mod the daily driver!

[perfinj]

I see a lot of you have some questions about Jason's turbo kit. I want to answer and claer up some things. Yes the o2 sensors are disabled. You can not have a turbo setup without doing this. The truck will build 5 lbs of part throttle boost and the o2 will force stoich or 14.7 afr. This will burn pistons to the ground. So writing a tune is a little trickier since there is no o2 sensor to correct the fuel table. This means the tune has to be written 100% without any correction. The o2being enabled is how guys like Sean (Hemifever), myself and other SCT pcm tuners can write you guys tunes over the internet or mailorder and the tunes be real close. Also a map sensor is designed with a certain slope and differnt map sensors have different slopes so they can greatly affect the tune. They change the voltage the pcm sees which will change where the pcm is looking on the main fuel table. As for o2 monitors and inspection that is easy you revert the tune to stock and put the stock map and injectors back in the truck and disconnect the boost. Drive the truck for an afternoon and it will go throught inspection. I do this all the time with customers trucks.

[ME111]

Basically just running in OPEN Loop mode all the time.

[meangreen]

o2's are normally turned off with sct and boost

Centrifigal SC can be tuned to run closed loop.

[2k1AmberR/T]

Centrifigal SC can be tuned to run closed loop.

Yes but how much boost do you build with a centrifugal blower at 50% throttle under 3000 rpm? Think about it. You are mostly in boost at WOT (and higher rpm) haha. With this turbo that isn't the case at all.:nana:

[dakfink]

Yes but how much boost do you build with a centrifugal blower at 50% throttle under 3000 rpm? Think about it. You are mostly in boost at WOT (and higher rpm) haha. With this turbo that isn't the case at all.:nana:

Depends on how you size the Supercharger and set the boost controller.

But yeah for the standard S or T-trim set-ups not going to see much below 3000rpms.

[mtlcafan79]

Depends on how you size the Supercharger and set the belt tensioner.

But yeah for the standard S or T-trim set-ups not going to see much below 3000rpms or above 5000rpm.

Fixed!

[Duner]

I hated "the belt".

Mo bettah now.

[perfinj]

Yes a centrifical superchager can be run in closed loop as long as it is not overdriven. It will not build part throttle boost.

[Five9Dak]

Sounds like turbos really need standalones to be done "right." Just my opinion. So SCT is great for NA, nitrous, low boost centrifugals and low boost twin screws. For high boost anything, or turbos, get a standalone.

I'm surprised the CL parameters aren't more configurable in the SCT software. I wasn't even aware TPS is a switch point for OL changeover, since the load variable is MAP.

[perfinj]

Well have you ever had someone remote tune a standalone? What about the expence of a standalone? What about reverting to stock with a standalone? What about being ob2 compliant and going through inspection having all monitors enabled. See where we are headed, standalone computers have there place, it is in a racecar. There is nothing wrong with having the pcm in open loop I do it to many vehicles that have turbo's or that have big cams. Anything over 230 degrees at .050 usually have the o2 disabled. As long as the fuel table is written correctly there is nothing wrong with this. My personal daily driver has no o2 enabled and the milage is the same.

[Duner]

Sounds like turbos really need standalones to be done "right." Just my opinion. So SCT is great for NA, nitrous, low boost centrifugals and low boost twin screws. For high boost anything, or turbos, get a standalone.

I'm surprised the CL parameters aren't more configurable in the SCT software. I wasn't even aware TPS is a switch point for OL changeover, since the load variable is MAP.

You can set it to go to open loop with MAP, TPS, RPM or even temperature if you want. My truck has been in open loop for 10 years. Sure, a standalone might be nice. I seriously doubt it would have better drivability or go faster. The mileage on mine could improve to be sure. But I should be able to fix THAT with SCT anyway..... or by backing off my 65psi of base rail pressure.

[Five9Dak]

You can set it to go to open loop with MAP, TPS, RPM or even temperature if you want. My truck has been in open loop for 10 years. Sure, a standalone might be nice. I seriously doubt it would have better drivability or go faster. The mileage on mine could improve to be sure. But I should be able to fix THAT with SCT anyway..... or by backing off my 65psi of base rail pressure.

I don't doubt that.... we'll have to agree to disagree on that one.

PIE- I don't recall recommending remote tuning as the "right" way to do it either. I'm sure you'd rather have the vehichles on your dyno anyway. The way you are configuring the SCT it requires the same effort as a standalone to pass emissions. Revert to stock injectors and a more stock like tune with no boost. You can wire a standalone on a patch harness and have it bypassed in the same amount of time it takes to change a map sensor, and you won't have the added time of a reflash. Changing injectors takes the same time. If emissions compliance if your arguement for a standalone belonging in a racecar- then your SCT tunes also only belong in a racecar.

What is in my opinion the right way to do something, and what makes sense from a business and affordability case are obviously not the same thing. I don't question your decision to include SCT with your kits, or the means you have to go to get it to work. It clearly makes sense at that price point. (but so did extra injectors back in the day- didn't make them right)

If duner says you can knock it out of closed loop with MAP- why isn't that being done?

[meangreen]

OL switch points are very configurable in SCT. IMO the big problem in tuning for a turbo or twin screw would be the lack of resolution. (never screwed with TS or turbos, but that is my guess) With a centrifugal SC you can do a lot of fuel tuning with WOT multipliers (purely a function of RPM) to make up for the resolution problem ...

[mtlcafan79]

If a standalone was so easy then why is yours back on the factory PCM? :finger:

[meangreen]

I don't doubt that.... we'll have to agree to disagree on that one.

PIE- I don't recall recommending remote tuning as the "right" way to do it either. I'm sure you'd rather have the vehichles on your dyno anyway. The way you are configuring the SCT it requires the same effort as a standalone to pass emissions. Revert to stock injectors and a more stock like tune with no boost. You can wire a standalone on a patch harness and have it bypassed in the same amount of time it takes to change a map sensor, and you won't have the added time of a reflash. Changing injectors takes the same time. If emissions compliance if your arguement for a standalone belonging in a racecar- then your SCT tunes also only belong in a racecar.

What is in my opinion the right way to do something, and what makes sense from a business and affordability case are obviously not the same thing. I don't question your decision to include SCT with your kits, or the means you have to go to get it to work. It clearly makes sense at that price point. (but so did extra injectors back in the day- didn't make them right)

If duner says you can knock it out of closed loop with MAP- why isn't that being done?

Hopefully your smog shop doesn't get into boost for the test. If they did, you would fail the sniffer anyway. I would say that all you need to do is switch to closed loop to pass. Keep the big injectors and map in place .... thats what imma do... try....pray for

[Duner]

Ours here in AZ just hooks up to see if there are any MILs set in the system and that all readiness systems have passed. No rollers yet. No chance of boost. They have pretty much even stopped doing a visual if the computer says it's good..... although I do see a check box where they are supposed to be doing a visual. :biggthumpup:

[Five9Dak]

Hopefully your smog shop doesn't get into boost for the test. If they did, you would fail the sniffer anyway. I would say that all you need to do is switch to closed loop to pass. Keep the big injectors and map in place .... thats what imma do... try....pray for

meangreen- PIE said to remove the boost.

Sean- the simple answer is don't mod the daily. The truck will cease to be a daily very shortly. The real answer is I didn't have a fucking clue about wiring when I put the standalone on the first time, or the time to diagnose what was probably one bad solder joint. The AEM patch harness is a really nice piece and should be the way going forward for everyong to wire standalones IMO. It is removable in three plugs. If had done it that way from the begining, it would have been on the standalone this whole time, I am sure of it.

[dakfink]

Fixed!

NOT!!

Still no one has come out with a feasible COG drive system to stop the d*** belt slip.

I got most of the parts in my garage, just no time at home to make it happen.

[Five9Dak]

Get a blower that takes less power to drive :-p

[krusty_R/T]

Is there no load factor in these pcms where it switches from CL to OL?

Wish I could just run DSMLink on my truck. lol

[Duner]

Get a blower that takes less power to drive :-p

Hahahaha.

I want a blower that makes 24psi of boost at 1600cfm and takes zero HP to drive..... and no belt slip.

[WhiteRT]

Is there no load factor in these pcms where it switches from CL to OL?

Wish I could just run DSMLink on my truck. lol

Are the DSM's speed density or MAF?

Todd

[krusty_R/T]

Are the DSM's speed density or MAF?

Todd
Whatever you want :D.

I have been running SD for 2 months now on my Junk DSM

[WhiteRT]

Whatever you want :D.

I have been running SD for 2 months now on my Junk DSM

Oh nice - sucks our pcm is such a primitive piece of shit! LSedit does some crazy shit on the vettes and camaros as well :(

Todd

[GrimRT]

Standalone is the way to go if you don"t have emission testing and IF you are willing to spend the time, effort, and money to tune it properly. Its not just tune and go, there are a multitude of fine tweaks you have to do to get it running right at idle, part throttle, decel, ect and then there is all the other small shit you need to adjust that you never think of (or at least I didn't). It is a long and drawn out process to get a good driveable tune not just one that works a 1/4 mile at a time.

[2k1AmberR/T]

So I just got a tracking number from UPS for these gaskets. Scheduled delivery is TUESDAY. Fuck.

[ME111]

So I just got a tracking number from UPS for these gaskets. Scheduled delivery is TUESDAY. Fuck.

In the meantime..there's always RTV.

[sunike32]

So I just got a tracking number from UPS for these gaskets. Scheduled delivery is TUESDAY. Fuck.

DAMN! Shoulda went FedEx (Express) :nana:

[2k1AmberR/T]

In the meantime..there's always RTV.

yup! i'm trying :)

[meangreen]

Standalone is the way to go if you don"t have emission testing and IF you are willing to spend the time, effort, and money to tune it properly. Its not just tune and go, there are a multitude of fine tweaks you have to do to get it running right at idle, part throttle, decel, ect and then there is all the other small shit you need to adjust that you never think of (or at least I didn't). It is a long and drawn out process to get a good driveable tune not just one that works a 1/4 mile at a time.

The same stuff is applicable to SCT, the difference is that more than 5 people know how to tweak most standalone systems. It was much easier to get my truck running right with DFI than SCT. Much easier .... but then there is the issue of emmisions testing...

[dakfink]

Whatever you want :D.

I have been running SD for 2 months now on my Junk DSM

That be the one you found in Texas??

That PCM is very flexible for 10yr older technology than whats in the Daks.

[GrimRT]

The same stuff is applicable to SCT, the difference is that more than 5 people know how to tweak most standalone systems. It was much easier to get my truck running right with DFI than SCT. Much easier .... but then there is the issue of emmisions testing...

How can that be the case? You have no setup issues with SCT and no wiring to do, there is a base tune already in place, all the accesories run properly off the pcm like your fan and fuel pump ect, basically you arent starting from scratch like you are with a standalone.

[krusty_R/T]

That be the one you found in Texas??

That PCM is very flexible for 10yr older technology than whats in the Daks.
Nope, still havent finished putting it back together :jester:.

This would be in my 94 Talon. AKA Junk DSM at 25 psi. Part of the reason I like DSMs so much is the ease of tuning using the stock computer. If I ever have to smog my 2g, I can, even with DSMlink.

[2k1AmberR/T]

This is what happens when you don't retorque your headers.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/39837044.jpg

[Duner]

This is what happens when you don't retorque your headers.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/2001AFRT/39837044.jpg

I've never been able to keep those "dead soft" gaskets in place for more than 1 pass. Between the heat and the back pressure - they always do that.

[2k1AmberR/T]

What do you use now, RTV? I'm going to try Remflex tomorrow and hope they hold up after a few heat cycles torquing the bolts down afterward. The tune I have now is pretty good, definitely good enough to drive around on and drive up to PIE for some fine tuning at WOT and cruising around later this week once I know the leak has been taken care of for 100% certainty. Then it is time to hit the track!

[Duner]

What do you use now, RTV? I'm going to try Remflex tomorrow and hope they hold up after a few heat cycles torquing the bolts down afterward. The tune I have now is pretty good, definitely good enough to drive around on and drive up to PIE for some fine tuning at WOT and cruising around later this week once I know the leak has been taken care of for 100% certainty. Then it is time to hit the track!

I just use hi-temp rtv.

[Five9Dak]

That's quite an exhaust leak.

[slvr03dakrt]

I use the felpro paper and steel manifold gaskets for a stock motor and I coat both sides with copper hi temp rtv and let them set for about 15mins and then tq em down let them set for around an hr. and start it up and get a good heat cycle and them check them again. Super cheap header gaskets I tried the copper ones and other ones and I found this work better than most and the price is great.

[GrimRT]

^same, except I do I have a turbo manifold and it works like a charm. Never had a leak. The trick, I believe, is to allow the RTV to setup before you torque the bolts down.

[meangreen]

How can that be the case? You have no setup issues with SCT and no wiring to do, there is a base tune already in place, all the accesories run properly off the pcm like your fan and fuel pump ect, basically you arent starting from scratch like you are with a standalone.

There is no SCT supercharger base tune in place. There are no books, websites, or other resources available to help you get started with SCT. Barely any dyno-tuners will touch it. With DFI, there is a very good auto-calibration feature .... basically you enter fuel pressure and injector size, cam specs, head specs, and MAP sensor type and its writes a base tune for you. In my case this tune got my truck started right up and running pretty damn good. Pretty much any dyno shop will tune DFI.

Yeah, wiring was tougher, but I bought a premade splice in harness that allowed me to keep all funtionality of the PCM, minus fuel and spark. the wiring was done in one afternoon. Furthermore, there is built in datalogging and no need to fool around with installing datalogging hardware...

[krs1r/t]

^same, except I do I have a turbo manifold and it works like a charm. Never had a leak. The trick, I believe, is to allow the RTV to setup before you torque the bolts down.

how long do you let it setup overnight? how tight are the bolts when it is setting up?

[Five9Dak]

There is no SCT supercharger base tune in place. There are no books, websites, or other resources available to help you get started with SCT. Barely any dyno-tuners will touch it. With DFI, there is a very good auto-calibration feature .... basically you enter fuel pressure and injector size, cam specs, head specs, and MAP sensor type and its writes a base tune for you. In my case this tune got my truck started right up and running pretty damn good. Pretty much any dyno shop will tune DFI.

Yeah, wiring was tougher, but I bought a premade splice in harness that allowed me to keep all funtionality of the PCM, minus fuel and spark. the wiring was done in one afternoon. Furthermore, there is built in datalogging and no need to fool around with installing datalogging hardware...

Most people install take longer to get the datalogging hardward and MAP sensor wiring correct because it is not well documented than it takes to get a properly documented standalone installed.

[2k1AmberR/T]

Well it runs a lot better now, Remflex gaskets are awesome. I only put one on the turbo side but I'll probably end up replacing the Percy's gasket on the non turbo side with the extra Remflex I have anyway. Maybe tomorrow. ALL of my v-bands need to be tightened down again, and I need to burp the radiator. Then after a few heat cycles and making sure everything is tight it is going straight up to PIE for some fine tuning. Right now the tune is good enough to drive around on and I've put maybe 20 miles or so on it. Maybe in cab videos to hear it will be coming soon. And track videos along with dyno videos when I post up the before/after results.

[Duner]

Well it runs a lot better now, Remflex gaskets are awesome. I only put one on the turbo side but I'll probably end up replacing the Percy's gasket on the non turbo side with the extra Remflex I have anyway. Maybe tomorrow. ALL of my v-bands need to be tightened down again, and I need to burp the radiator. Then after a few heat cycles and making sure everything is tight it is going straight up to PIE for some fine tuning. Right now the tune is good enough to drive around on and I've put maybe 20 miles or so on it. Maybe in cab videos to hear it will be coming soon. And track videos along with dyno videos when I post up the before/after results.

We're looking forward to those videos....

[Five9Dak]

Good to hear the gaskets are working for you.

[2k1AmberR/T]

I think you guys are going to love the in cab videos I'll be posting shortly. The sounds are pretty damn ridiculous. I'll try to get one showing how quickly that MPH gauge gets to 100 also. If it wasn't raining out today I'd just do it right now but I need to tighten a few things still and I have enough traction problems when it isn't raining out. (I've actually never had traction issues even with 300whp heads/cam/bolt ons but now just changing lanes and getting excited will do it). I was changing lanes to pass someone rolling about 45-50 this morning and the ass end was coming out on me pretty fierce at partial throttle just easing into it. That's incredible. That's under 5 pounds of boost also, fyi. The wastegate really only opens at WOT and I see about 7psi. Absolutely perfect for a street application IMO. For any more power I'll need to spend a fuck ton of money on a fuel system, transmission, and short block. I'm really not willing to do any of that at this time. I can't imagine having a strong transmission with a forged short block revving to 6000+ rpm seeing ~15 pounds of boost. What the fuck. I know why Duner runs 10's at the peak of Mount Everest now.

[Duner]

I think you guys are going to love the in cab videos I'll be posting shortly. The sounds are pretty damn ridiculous. I'll try to get one showing how quickly that MPH gauge gets to 100 also. If it wasn't raining out today I'd just do it right now but I need to tighten a few things still and I have enough traction problems when it isn't raining out. (I've actually never had traction issues even with 300whp heads/cam/bolt ons but now just changing lanes and getting excited will do it). I was changing lanes to pass someone rolling about 45-50 this morning and the ass end was coming out on me pretty fierce at partial throttle just easing into it. That's incredible. That's under 5 pounds of boost also, fyi. The wastegate really only opens at WOT and I see about 7psi. Absolutely perfect for a street application IMO. For any more power I'll need to spend a fuck ton of money on a fuel system, transmission, and short block. I'm really not willing to do any of that at this time. I can't imagine having a strong transmission with a forged short block revving to 6000+ rpm seeing ~15 pounds of boost. What the fuck. I know why Duner runs 10's at the peak of Mount Everest now.

Glad to hear you're out there raising hell already! LOL

Addiction to boost is not a strong enough word.....
You've been warned. Hahahaha:biggthumpup:

[BryanRT360]

I think you guys are going to love the in cab videos I'll be posting shortly. The sounds are pretty damn ridiculous. I'll try to get one showing how quickly that MPH gauge gets to 100 also. If it wasn't raining out today I'd just do it right now but I need to tighten a few things still and I have enough traction problems when it isn't raining out. (I've actually never had traction issues even with 300whp heads/cam/bolt ons but now just changing lanes and getting excited will do it). I was changing lanes to pass someone rolling about 45-50 this morning and the ass end was coming out on me pretty fierce at partial throttle just easing into it. That's incredible. That's under 5 pounds of boost also, fyi. The wastegate really only opens at WOT and I see about 7psi. Absolutely perfect for a street application IMO. For any more power I'll need to spend a fuck ton of money on a fuel system, transmission, and short block. I'm really not willing to do any of that at this time. I can't imagine having a strong transmission with a forged short block revving to 6000+ rpm seeing ~15 pounds of boost. What the fuck. I know why Duner runs 10's at the peak of Mount Everest now.

what day you getting on the dyno? did i heard this friday?? maybe I'll meet you down there..

[sunike32]

I was changing lanes to pass someone rolling about 45-50 this morning and the ass end was coming out on me pretty fierce at partial throttle just easing into it. That's incredible.

:rockwoot: :drive: :burnout:

[2k1AmberR/T]

what day you getting on the dyno? did i heard this friday?? maybe I'll meet you down there..

Yes, I'll probably be there on Friday around 4 or 4:30. I won't know until tomorrow, there's no point in taking it up to him if the truck isn't 100% mechanically ready to go. I still have leaks to take care of and it is raining outside so...I'm not laying on my back to get under that thing. I'm trying to meet that vinsrt guy to buy his drag radials while I'm there because now I know I'll need them LOL and if you wanted to meet there as well that's fine by me. I guess if there's anyone to talk to about it that would be Chris. He probably wouldn't mind having a few turbo fan boys though.

I have a 3" high flow cat on the truck right now. (there's a v-band at each end of it because I plan on making a test pipe for it, just don't have it yet!) It keeps everything legal and quiets it down and honestly with the amount of power I'm making right now I could care less if I made more horsepower without it. I might not lose any power with it at all! I don't know yet. But I don't expect to make super high horsepower numbers. The dyno is simply going to be a tool used to tune the truck so I know it is safe and where it is supposed to be. I'd love to see 400+ for bragging rights but at the same time fuck it if it only makes 365. I just want the tune right. It is damn close now but I know when he's datalogging on the dyno he'll be able to fine tune it a lot better than just talking to me on the phone about it.

Track numbers are what counts. I know this truck made 297whp and 335 ft/lbs of torque on my last dyno session that Chris tuned the truck. This will be the same time of the year almost exactly one year later on the same dyno so that's kinda cool. More importantly I know my truck ran consistent ass 13.8's all damn day long before. I'm excited to see what it runs now, as long as I have traction I have no doubt I'll dip into the 12's. I'm on the stock rear end and transmission though so although 12.5 or faster at 110+ mph would be nice to achieve I don't know if it will be possible as the truck sits. It is configured to be a street monster not a drag racing machine. So I hope I go mid 12's but again, fuck it if I don't. It is a blast to drive on the street. I'm sure I'd have some great track times if I had a torque converter, slicks/skinnies, and some type of intercooler and/or race tune for race fuel. With cooler weather right around the corner I'll see what I can do without having to replace my transmission or bump up the boost level. Should be fun. I can't fit slicks/skinny tires with these Viper brakes, no smaller than 17's.

[2k1AmberR/T]

Also aside from the leaks my interior isn't 100% back together yet. I have to cut a larger hole in the top of my steering column for the gauge pod to rest all the way down on it and I have a kick panel to put back on. I could care less about that stuff since the gauges are at least hooked up and I can drive it BUT it might look kinda shitty in the videos if you see it. I'm taking my ex girlfriend out tonight so maybe I'll ask her to take a few videos anyway :) Hahaha.

[BryanRT360]

cool let me know..

[2k1AmberR/T]

cool let me know..

I'll be there tomorrow! Chris said it is cool if you stop by. I'll grab some pizzas for us.

[mtlcafan79]

What time you rollin' back over the bridge?

[2k1AmberR/T]

Shit, I have no clue. I'll be leaving work at 1 I think? Puts me at PIE around 3:30 ish. I'm sure I'll be out of there by 5:30, my tune is rock solid right now so it won't take long to do some last minute tweaks if need be, I'm basically just seeing what kind of numbers it puts down. Also swapping map sensors. I don't really have much planned after that, I think my girl problem is busy elsewhere so I'm basically problem free tomorrow night. I have to be at work on Saturday at 6am so I might have to take it easy on the alcohol.

[BryanRT360]

I'll be there tomorrow! Chris said it is cool if you stop by. I'll grab some pizzas for us.

ok. I'll meet you there tomorrow..

[RobbyD]

Shit, I have no clue. I'll be leaving work at 1 I think? Puts me at PIE around 3:30 ish. I'm sure I'll be out of there by 5:30, my tune is rock solid right now so it won't take long to do some last minute tweaks if need be, I'm basically just seeing what kind of numbers it puts down. Also swapping map sensors. I don't really have much planned after that, I think my girl problem is busy elsewhere so I'm basically problem free tomorrow night. I have to be at work on Saturday at 6am so I might have to take it easy on the alcohol.

I can still see Bryan tapping his beer can on the ground. :D

[Five9Dak]

Bahahaha, Jason never did catch up that night.

[2k1AmberR/T]

I'm stubborn as hell though! Hahahahaha.

[mtlcafan79]

My friends still talk about you from Memorial Day weekend.

[sunike32]

I can still see Bryan tapping his beer can on the ground. :D

:jester:

Bryan, how'd that saying go? "Gotta catch me before you can pass me"

tap tap tap drink up Jason hahah

[BryanRT360]

:jester:

Bryan, how'd that saying go? "Gotta catch me before you can pass me"

tap tap tap drink up Jason hahah

haha I dont remember exactly.. but jason was sure tore up by the end of the night:jester:

[sunike32]

haha I dont remember exactly.. but jason was sure tore up by the end of the night:jester:

If Rob wasn't working so damn much, he could edit that video down to a Jason montage :jester:

[Five9Dak]

Oh boy...

[turboed r/t]

I bet your trip home from PIE was fun as hell with the new tune. Sorry I didnt get to see the 10lb pull--cris called and told me your #s on 10lbs--nice they are going to have to scrape that smile off you. Won't be long before mine is up and running maybe we can get some R/Ts together--although that seems like a hard thing to do.

[ME111]

I bet your trip home from PIE was fun as hell with the new tune. Sorry I didnt get to see the 10lb pull--cris called and told me your #s on 10lbs--nice they are going to have to scrape that smile off you. Won't be long before mine is up and running maybe we can get some R/Ts together--although that seems like a hard thing to do.

Gonna venture a guess on 10lbs for Jason's setup and say right around 450rwhp

[BryanRT360]

It made about 420-430

[ME111]

It made about 420-430

Fact or speculation?