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View Full Version : Intercooler progress... [Mocked up the heat exchanger (pics)]



PeteRT
08-10-2010, 06:23 AM
Now all I need is my BOV flange welded to the IC, and I'm all set to start the install.

Here's the exchanger I ended up with:

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Code=HE002&Category_Code=HTEX

Here's how it will work out... Just need to grind a little off each bumper bracket to make clearance for the 3/4 hose and get a cheapo overflow tank (stock 99 is a little too big).

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/waterneck/IMG_3250.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/waterneck/IMG_3248.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/waterneck/IMG_3249.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/waterneck/IMG_3251.jpg

PeteRT
08-10-2010, 06:27 AM
one day i'll clean up that hideous trans cooler.... maybe next year.

pete

PeteRT
08-11-2010, 02:54 AM
just a couple pics dry fitting the cooler:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/IMG_3258.jpg


i think i need one of those fancy extreme velocity air hats.... would take care of this mess...

for now, im going to put the air hat on the band saw for clearance, and join the two with a trimmed down 45* coupler
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/IMG_3254.jpg

so much for decluttering the engine bay- only to fill it back up with all this crap, lol.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/IMG_3257.jpg

2k1AmberR/T
08-11-2010, 02:59 AM
Looks awesome, Pete! Care to explain exactly how you're setting up your system and how it works? DYI intercooling, for r/t dummies?

PeteRT
08-11-2010, 05:11 AM
by a dummy, for dummies, lol... i'm learning as i go. i am by no means any sort of expert, not even close.

The reason I decided to intercool was not for the ability to bump the timing and push the truck to it's absolute limit. im leaving a good bit of HP on the table at the expense of peace of mind. keep it cool, keep it reliable.... for now. i'll revisit that as i become more comfortable with the set-up. i only drove it with the s/c for about a week before sean suggested i look into cooling the IAT... so, me being the better safe than sorry type, i started looking for parts..

there are a few places online that sell air/water coolers, but not nearly as many as i thought there would be. after looking at some pricey ones ($750+), i settled on one for $150 that looks like it'll do the job fine. There are a couple sites that sell the exact same stuff, for the exact same prices:

www.frozenboost.com
www.siliconeintakes.com
www.votionspeed.com

if you've got the cash to spend and are looking for something more specialized, check these out. For me, the cost difference alone was enough to not even consider them.

www.precisionturbo.net
www.bellintercoolers.com
www.turboneticsinc.com

Then, I started looking at pumps. Just looking around online, seeing what other people are using, I settled on a Bosch pump ford used to stick on supercharged Mustangs, I think Mercedes also uses the same. You can find it at any of the sites i listed first.. Another popular option are Rule bilge pumps. Shurflo is another good company. Again, it came down to cost.. The Bosch pump was a little over $100, and I figure- what's good for the masses, is probably good for me. Most RV suppliers online will have a good selection, just make sure you get one rated for continuous duty. Expect pricing for those to be in the $200+ range.

With the intercooler and pump out of the way, I looked at ice tanks. I bought one from SMRE, but they pissed me off so I canceled my order. I ended up buying one from a guy on ebay that makes his own, and will build it to your specs. It hasn't come yet, but here is what I bought.. I'm having him put 3/4 bungs on instead of the 1" he lists in his auctions. I'm sure it will be nice, he has almost 1200 feedback at 100%. check out the link to his other work, he has some nice stuff!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Liquid-Ice-Water-air-intercooler-water-storage-tank-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ180545151986QQptZMotorsQ5f CarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_500wt_1182

http://dadscustomintercoolertank.com/

For about $160 shipped, it's cheaper than the SMRE alternative by about $50:

http://www.smreperformance.com/5-gallon-water-tank.html

For the heat exchanger, it was a little bit of a gamble. Some of the guys on here like CXracing.com , some say their stuff is a bit cheezy. I'm happy with it. Basically, I just got the biggest one (within reason) that would fit. It will not work if you have the a/c radiator up front still. I suppose you could mount it back by the rear bumper as some people do, but i have the room to spare, so why not put it right up front. I don't think I'll need another fan, but we'll see. the 2 speed viper will probably do just fine. The exchanger has a 1/4NPT drain on it that i'm going to use for a temp sender. As soon as I find a 1/8 - 1/4 adapter, I'm in business with that. if not, there are fittings i can splice into 3/4 hose that will take a temp sender.

I really would like to have an air temp gauge, but i can't find one with the range I want for the price I want to pay. There are IAT gauges and senders out there, but they are some kind of crazy setup with a gauge, probe, and some kind of box im not sure what it's for.. I've seen those systems for sale for $200+. Autometer has a temp gauge with a low range (40F-120F i think) that I plan on using as soon as I see a cheap one on ebay (i think they are discontinued). Nordskog used to make one for like $50, but I can't find it anywhere. Dakota digital has a decent one, but it's oblong and wouldn't match anything I have.

That brings us to fittings... holy shit, they are pricey- no surprise there. I eliminated as many as I could by going with products with barbed fittings already installed. Some, you can easily get away with the home depot variety, but me being very particular on cosmetics- i want things to look good, at least under the hood. I have a bunch of -10AN hose laying around, so im going to use that where i can. everywhere else, im just going to pick up some cheap 3/4 hose from lowes or wherever. basically, im going to run cheap hose from the tank to about the trans, then adapt it to -10AN and plug it into the cooler with nice fittings. on the other side of the cooler, run braided hose again, down to the exchanger barb, and get one of those AN looking hose clamps, same for the other side..

Everything in my system is 3/4 except the intercooler, it is 1/2 NPT. You would be surprised how difficult it is to find a 1/2NPT male, to 3/4 npt 90* adapter that bends, instead of corners.. I did find a 1/2NPT to -10AN 90* fitting for about $40. If not, it's easy enough to stack fittings, but i dont think i'd like how that looks. I'm going to a shop in the morning to see about opening up those holes to 3/4, and to mount the BOV flange to the the intercooler end tank. I got a quote for that off a craigslist ad, $275... I think that guy's full of shit for opening up 2 holes, drilling another, and welding the flange on. We'll see what the other shop says in the morning. I really need to find a quality, one-stop machine shop locally.

here's how the water flows:

The water/ice tank is going in the bed, I have yet to decide how to run the water supply line under the bed to the pump. I might try to use the tie-down holes.

Straight shot from the pump to the back of the intercooler (this line will be well insulated)

From the intercooler to the heat exchanger behind the front fascia, then back to the tank. No insulation here, I want the heat to bleed off on its way to reservoir. Repeat.

So far, in parts I have about $650-$750. I have yet to buy fittings and cheap hose- that bill should be around $100. Not too bad for a whole system. Those "cheap" websites I mentioned earlier do kit components together. I could probably have saved $100-$150 going that route if i knew what I wanted from the start.. but the way I did it, piecing parts together I was unsure about- I spent extra. If I buy a new air hat to help with the misalignment, that should be another $300 shipped, a bit rich for my blood right now. I don't know how much more i can sneak past the wife, lol.

I never considered an air/air setup. Mainly due to the discharge on my vortech. I thought it would look really shitty putting a 180* bend on it, then down to the grille, and back up to the TB. With all the custom fab work needed, I'd bet it would cost double of what I spent on the air/water. The common consensus is air/air is better for every day driving, and air/water is mainly only good for a short time, good for drag racing. Now we're getting into territory i can't even attempt to speak intelligently about... i don't know shit about thermodynamics. Even in every day, all day driving- the water temp will probably be 20 degrees above ambient (just going off info i came across on the web). doesn't sound good, but when you consider mashing the gas, the blower discharge air is 250-300 degrees (again, going off the interweb)- water at 100 degrees will still cool the charge air a good bit. not as good as ice water, but it should cool it enough to stay in the "safe zone", whatever that is. That's why i got the biggest exchanger i could (afford).

hope all this helps a bit.. i've been researching all of this as my project progresses for the past month or so.
pete

Branx5.9
08-11-2010, 05:14 AM
Looking good!:rockwoot:

01dakotaR/T
08-11-2010, 11:26 AM
Very nice

BluRT00
08-11-2010, 02:25 PM
Pete your my hero! I can't wait till you get her back up and running. I might copy you on this for my setup. Not sure how much different position wise my paxton novi 2000 is vs your vortec. Probably not much at all.:biggthumpup:

2k1AmberR/T
08-11-2010, 04:35 PM
You really know you've learned something when you can teach it to others. Thanks for the informative post.. I've seen your other threads but haven't really paid attention which is why I asked here. It is all starting to come together, and rather nicely at that. You sure didn't fuck around, seems to me like you did your homework and paid up for what you wanted quickly. I didn't expect to see assembly pics for another month or two.

Sick 660r
08-11-2010, 06:39 PM
by a dummy, for dummies, lol... i'm learning as i go. i am by no means any sort of expert, not even close.

The reason I decided to intercool was not for the ability to bump the timing and push the truck to it's absolute limit. im leaving a good bit of HP on the table at the expense of peace of mind. keep it cool, keep it reliable.... for now. i'll revisit that as i become more comfortable with the set-up. i only drove it with the s/c for about a week before sean suggested i look into cooling the IAT... so, me being the better safe than sorry type, i started looking for parts..

there are a few places online that sell air/water coolers, but not nearly as many as i thought there would be. after looking at some pricey ones ($750+), i settled on one for $150 that looks like it'll do the job fine. There are a couple sites that sell the exact same stuff, for the exact same prices:

www.frozenboost.com
www.siliconeintakes.com
www.votionspeed.com

if you've got the cash to spend and are looking for something more specialized, check these out. For me, the cost difference alone was enough to not even consider them.

www.precisionturbo.net
www.bellintercoolers.com
www.turboneticsinc.com

Then, I started looking at pumps. Just looking around online, seeing what other people are using, I settled on a Bosch pump ford used to stick on supercharged Mustangs, I think Mercedes also uses the same. You can find it at any of the sites i listed first.. Another popular option are Rule bilge pumps. Shurflo is another good company. Again, it came down to cost.. The Bosch pump was a little over $100, and I figure- what's good for the masses, is probably good for me. Most RV suppliers online will have a good selection, just make sure you get one rated for continuous duty. Expect pricing for those to be in the $200+ range.

With the intercooler and pump out of the way, I looked at ice tanks. I bought one from SMRE, but they pissed me off so I canceled my order. I ended up buying one from a guy on ebay that makes his own, and will build it to your specs. It hasn't come yet, but here is what I bought.. I'm having him put 3/4 bungs on instead of the 1" he lists in his auctions. I'm sure it will be nice, he has almost 1200 feedback at 100%. check out the link to his other work, he has some nice stuff!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Liquid-Ice-Water-air-intercooler-water-storage-tank-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ180545151986QQptZMotorsQ5f CarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_500wt_1182

http://dadscustomintercoolertank.com/

For about $160 shipped, it's cheaper than the SMRE alternative by about $50:

http://www.smreperformance.com/5-gallon-water-tank.html

For the heat exchanger, it was a little bit of a gamble. Some of the guys on here like CXracing.com , some say their stuff is a bit cheezy. I'm happy with it. Basically, I just got the biggest one (within reason) that would fit. It will not work if you have the a/c radiator up front still. I suppose you could mount it back by the rear bumper as some people do, but i have the room to spare, so why not put it right up front. I don't think I'll need another fan, but we'll see. the 2 speed viper will probably do just fine. The exchanger has a 1/4NPT drain on it that i'm going to use for a temp sender. As soon as I find a 1/8 - 1/4 adapter, I'm in business with that. if not, there are fittings i can splice into 3/4 hose that will take a temp sender.

I really would like to have an air temp gauge, but i can't find one with the range I want for the price I want to pay. There are IAT gauges and senders out there, but they are some kind of crazy setup with a gauge, probe, and some kind of box im not sure what it's for.. I've seen those systems for sale for $200+. Autometer has a temp gauge with a low range (40F-120F i think) that I plan on using as soon as I see a cheap one on ebay (i think they are discontinued). Nordskog used to make one for like $50, but I can't find it anywhere. Dakota digital has a decent one, but it's oblong and wouldn't match anything I have.

That brings us to fittings... holy shit, they are pricey- no surprise there. I eliminated as many as I could by going with products with barbed fittings already installed. Some, you can easily get away with the home depot variety, but me being very particular on cosmetics- i want things to look good, at least under the hood. I have a bunch of -10AN hose laying around, so im going to use that where i can. everywhere else, im just going to pick up some cheap 3/4 hose from lowes or wherever. basically, im going to run cheap hose from the tank to about the trans, then adapt it to -10AN and plug it into the cooler with nice fittings. on the other side of the cooler, run braided hose again, down to the exchanger barb, and get one of those AN looking hose clamps, same for the other side..

Everything in my system is 3/4 except the intercooler, it is 1/2 NPT. You would be surprised how difficult it is to find a 1/2NPT male, to 3/4 npt 90* adapter that bends, instead of corners.. I did find a 1/2NPT to -10AN 90* fitting for about $40. If not, it's easy enough to stack fittings, but i dont think i'd like how that looks. I'm going to a shop in the morning to see about opening up those holes to 3/4, and to mount the BOV flange to the the intercooler end tank. I got a quote for that off a craigslist ad, $275... I think that guy's full of shit for opening up 2 holes, drilling another, and welding the flange on. We'll see what the other shop says in the morning. I really need to find a quality, one-stop machine shop locally.

here's how the water flows:

The water/ice tank is going in the bed, I have yet to decide how to run the water supply line under the bed to the pump. I might try to use the tie-down holes.

Straight shot from the pump to the back of the intercooler (this line will be well insulated)

From the intercooler to the heat exchanger behind the front fascia, then back to the tank. No insulation here, I want the heat to bleed off on its way to reservoir. Repeat.

So far, in parts I have about $650-$750. I have yet to buy fittings and cheap hose- that bill should be around $100. Not too bad for a whole system. Those "cheap" websites I mentioned earlier do kit components together. I could probably have saved $100-$150 going that route if i knew what I wanted from the start.. but the way I did it, piecing parts together I was unsure about- I spent extra. If I buy a new air hat to help with the misalignment, that should be another $300 shipped, a bit rich for my blood right now. I don't know how much more i can sneak past the wife, lol.

I never considered an air/air setup. Mainly due to the discharge on my vortech. I thought it would look really shitty putting a 180* bend on it, then down to the grille, and back up to the TB. With all the custom fab work needed, I'd bet it would cost double of what I spent on the air/water. The common consensus is air/air is better for every day driving, and air/water is mainly only good for a short time, good for drag racing. Now we're getting into territory i can't even attempt to speak intelligently about... i don't know shit about thermodynamics. Even in every day, all day driving- the water temp will probably be 20 degrees above ambient (just going off info i came across on the web). doesn't sound good, but when you consider mashing the gas, the blower discharge air is 250-300 degrees (again, going off the interweb)- water at 100 degrees will still cool the charge air a good bit. not as good as ice water, but it should cool it enough to stay in the "safe zone", whatever that is. That's why i got the biggest exchanger i could (afford).

hope all this helps a bit.. i've been researching all of this as my project progresses for the past month or so.
pete

sounds like you have it all planned out.

As for the fittings, you're using 10an correct? If not it really doesnt matter. Instead of trying to find a 1/2npt to 3/4npt 90* bend I would suggest getting a straight 1/2npt to 10an adaptor then getting a 90* 10an fitting. It would look much better and probably save you money.

PeteRT
08-11-2010, 11:36 PM
sounds like you have it all planned out.

As for the fittings, you're using 10an correct? If not it really doesnt matter. Instead of trying to find a 1/2npt to 3/4npt 90* bend I would suggest getting a straight 1/2npt to 10an adaptor then getting a 90* 10an fitting. It would look much better and probably save you money.

yes, -10an for where you can see. i have about 15 feet of it so i might as well use it. after mocking some of this stuff up last night i have a little more room than i thought for fittings. a npt to -an adapter and a size 10 bend would do the trick. i'm holding off until my tank comes in, so i can just place 1 order for the rest of the stuff i need.

now the issue seems to be the outside air intake. i don't think i have enough room to mount the cooler and have that big ass j-bend fit between it and the fender.. i might have to go ghetto fabulous with some dryer ducting or the like.... or, run the intake straight back, and put a 45*ish bend on it and the filter will reside up by where the washer reservoir used to be. i duno... just gotta play with stuff. we'll see what i end up with.

Pete

Five9Dak
08-11-2010, 11:53 PM
Cold air to the compressor is critical, make it happen.

Sick 660r
08-12-2010, 12:56 AM
yes, -10an for where you can see. i have about 15 feet of it so i might as well use it. after mocking some of this stuff up last night i have a little more room than i thought for fittings. a npt to -an adapter and a size 10 bend would do the trick. i'm holding off until my tank comes in, so i can just place 1 order for the rest of the stuff i need.

now the issue seems to be the outside air intake. i don't think i have enough room to mount the cooler and have that big ass j-bend fit between it and the fender.. i might have to go ghetto fabulous with some dryer ducting or the like.... or, run the intake straight back, and put a 45*ish bend on it and the filter will reside up by where the washer reservoir used to be. i duno... just gotta play with stuff. we'll see what i end up with.

Pete

another suggestion. It would be a good idea to find a shop locally that sells the fittings. I tried to do the one order thing but found myself needing a fitting here and there. Shipping adds up fast for just one fitting. Im pickey as well and hate the fact that my fittings come from two different places because there are small details that are different but most people wouldnt notice. I also think that you will find yourself using an fittings more often because they are easy to use (except putting them on) and almost leak proof. Just my 2 cents.

PeteRT
08-12-2010, 06:44 AM
ah HA... autometer still makes it:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-4337M/

it's priced nicely and matches the rest of the gauges i have.
pete

edit: shit, its celsius:doh:

PeteRT
08-12-2010, 06:46 AM
another suggestion. It would be a good idea to find a shop locally that sells the fittings

the shop i went to this morning for the flange was out to lunch or something, i guess i should have called first. i'm sure they, or know someone local that carries a good variety.

pete

KTK00R/T
08-13-2010, 01:40 AM
wish I could intercool the KB... warm "cold" air from the bumper for now... Looks good!

Five9Dak
08-13-2010, 03:10 AM
Spray meth on the KB.

PeteRT
08-25-2010, 06:24 AM
almost there... one more shipment from summit, a trip to lowes and i'm ready to get her back on the street. probably next weekend. then, down to the track for some last ditch runs before i decide to rip the dash apart and go adobedave and rewire everything. i swear i spend 5x the time working on this thing as i do driving it these days. i need to leave the thing alone and just enjoy it for a change.

just to jibber-jabber some more: got my blow off flange welded to the end-tank for $60 at a tuner shop... fuck that craigslist effer for $275...

pete

PeteRT
08-25-2010, 06:26 AM
oh yeah.. i ended up taking the angle grinder to the paxton air hat. i left just enough meat on the underside to get a good size t-bolt to bite. i should be able to get away with a straight coupler, but i might still have to cut up the 45* bed i picked up.
pete

KTK00R/T
08-25-2010, 11:23 AM
i swear i spend 5x the time working on this thing as i do driving it these days. i need to leave the thing alone and just enjoy it for a change.

ditto. Mine is still on jackstands for the slide a links and the blower needs some touch up. I'll be curious to see what your truck runs!

BluRT00
08-25-2010, 02:02 PM
i swear i spend 5x the time working on this thing as i do driving it these days. i need to leave the thing alone and just enjoy it for a change.

pete

That quote is oooooh so true. I am putting the dash back in mine this weekend.
Going to put the 3 block off plates in the fire wall, paint, reinsulate inside of fire wall. Then off too installing my LM2 that's replaced my LM1. Then hunt for some more weight to remove under the truck. :jester:

PeteRT
08-26-2010, 06:49 PM
got the intercooler back from the import shop that added a BOV flange..

got the ice tank, it's a nice piece. here's a couple new pics... just waiting for summit to deliver some fittings and i'm ready to put everything together & see what happens.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/vortech/IMG_3274.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/vortech/IMG_3273.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/vortech/IMG_3277.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/vortech/IMG_3279.jpg

PeteRT
08-26-2010, 06:57 PM
still have to figure out how to mount the filter... i might hack up and narrow a section of the J pipe. as-is, its snug against both the intercooler and fender.

i might put a reducer on the blower intake, a 90* silicone, another 90* silicone. or, i might get some flex hose and mount the filter down behind the fog light. we'll cross that bridge when i run out of other stuff...

pete

Duner
08-26-2010, 07:04 PM
still have to figure out how to mount the filter... i might hack up and narrow a section of the J pipe. as-is, its snug against both the intercooler and fender.

i might put a reducer on the blower intake, a 90* silicone, another 90* silicone. or, i might get some flex hose and mount the filter down behind the fog light. we'll cross that bridge when i run out of other stuff...

pete

It's truly amazing how many bugs my filter gets crammed full of behind the fog light opening.

PeteRT
08-26-2010, 07:18 PM
never thought they could get up there... must be some kind of vacuum behind the valance that sucks them in.

i've toyed with making the hood a functional ram air setup with the supercharger, bringing the intake pipe up over the water neck and letting it reside right there behind the scoop... not likely to happen, but ya gotta have bad ideas to get good ones, lol

pete

Duner
08-26-2010, 07:36 PM
never thought they could get up there... must be some kind of vacuum behind the valance that sucks them in.

i've toyed with making the hood a functional ram air setup with the supercharger, bringing the intake pipe up over the water neck and letting it reside right there behind the scoop... not likely to happen, but ya gotta have bad ideas to get good ones, lol

pete

Oh, sorry. I didn't say it clearly enough. I don't have a fog light in the opening. It's open directly to the filter. Ram air type. Especially when I block the entire grill opening both below the bumper in the valance area and also everything behind the grill. The only opening on the whole front of the truck is the foglight opening when I do that.

A functional ram air from the scoop sounds interesting.

SB440R/T
08-27-2010, 01:37 AM
I know its not the same, but the elbow goes to the front and into the fender. Can be a little nicer looking , but it works. Huge 9" filter in the fender.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/CIMG2367.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d197/Davidsalazar03/Truck/CIMG2365.jpg

PeteRT
08-27-2010, 06:21 AM
i think im going to go with 2 90*'s, it's just easier and cheaper. i'll have the J-bend to cut up if i need to make a funny angle. bringing the filter up to the scoop could be done, but after playing with the parts it would just look stupid.

PeteRT
08-28-2010, 05:56 AM
well, i'm calling it a night after wrestling with the -an fittings.... i need to look up some tips or tricks because lol, there's no way that hose end is going over the braid.

aside from that... got a couple things done, or at least started....

mounted the water pump under the bed in the very front drivers side. stuffed the water hose through the tie down in the bed and cut off a bit of bracing under the bed. i'll shoot the area with primer and clean up the edges next.

mounting the pump was kind of a pain in the ass. the centrifugal head on it is bigger than the body, which is a little less than a soda can. i wanted to use insulated clamps , but the head being so big- no bueno, it would be cocked off and look extremely afro-rigged. so, i had a piece of exhaust hangar laying around, took the grinder to it a little and ended up with a nice bracket i could mount to the sheet metal that is the front/underside of the bed, and stuff a hose clamp around the pump to hold it:
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/vortech/IMG_3289.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/vortech/IMG_3290.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/vortech/IMG_3292.jpg
the pump discharge is pointed back a little, and the cold water supply goes nicely in a channel that crosses from frame rail to frame rail, over the gas tank. This will run will get an insulated jacket.

The other thing i did today, was fab up a bracket to hold the cheapest $15 overflow bottle i could find. i had to ditch the stock overflow because of the heat exchanger. it mounts to the tabs on the radiator that used to hold the a/c. i'm not entirely satisfied with it, but it will work until i can put it on the other side of the radiator support, once i get a new cable for the battery already under the bed. it doesn't rub at all when the hood is closed, but closing or opening the hood, i need to take advantage of the little bit of flex in the grille to get over the bottom corner of the bottle. unfortunately, no amount of fanaggling will fit the canister where it is, it's as tight to the back as i can get it. its simply just too wide.

the bracket is hanging from my ceiling now, shot it with some undercoat & semi gloss paint.. the same fate the water pump bracket will have tomorrow.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/vortech/IMG_3285.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/vortech/IMG_3283.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/vortech/IMG_3284.jpg

That's it for tonight... not horrible for a hand drill, sawzall & grinder. luckily, undercoat makes anything look acceptable.
pete

tcuillier
08-28-2010, 06:25 AM
Looks good, Pete. Can't wait to see how it runs. Nice work.

tom

PeteRT
08-28-2010, 06:33 AM
it might be a bit longer than expected, lol... those couple pics took about 10 hours with a lunch break. haha, i'm sloooooow. that's what happens when you have TV in the garage! worst thing i ever did..... but i love it.

tcuillier
08-28-2010, 06:50 AM
I hear ya. Last year at a car show, I won a 37" Visio HiDef flat screen TV for Best Modern (1990 & newer) Modified Truck. That same car show, I won an iPod Touch for best paint. We already had a 46" Sony in the family room, an exact same 37" Visio in the bedroom, soooooooooooo into my shop the new one went, along with an HD box and DVR. It's always on when I'm in the shop---easy to get distracted and take a "rest break" watching it.

If you haven't done so already, get a BIG AC unit for your shop too, best thing I ever did for my shop. I bought a 24,000 btu /220 volt wall mount unit---you can hang beef in there to cure! Working up a sweat? Doesn't happen.

Watch Craigslist in the fall and winter, you can pick them up for a song in the off-season. I got one in September of last year, that had been bought new on July 2nd. (receipt & all manuals came with it). The people used it for less than one month, and then moved to a different house that had central air. I paid $150 for it---with a remote control! The receipt showed they paid $585 for it from Lowe's.

Tom

PeteRT
08-28-2010, 07:19 AM
the summer doesn't bother me, we only get a couple weeks per year when it's just too hot to work outside. i put a ceiling in last year, to trap the propane heater. Still have to insulate, and do the walls. -10, -15 for weeks and weeks in the winter reallllly sucks.

tcuillier
08-28-2010, 08:02 AM
I have a 10kw unit heater for the winter weather. My shop is 32' x 24' with 10' sidewalls and a peaked roof. I have an open ceiling with 2 ceiling fans to keep the air moving. The walls have 6" of fiberglass insulation and the ceiling or roof has 9" of glass insulation. Pretty easy to keep heated or cooled. Our weather here varies from a high of 110 degrees in the summer to -15 in the winter. I'm in SE WA state at 300' above sea level, in a true desert. We get 4 very distinct seasons here! This summer was really mild. We usually average about 15-20 days above 100 degrees, but I think this summer we've only had 4 or 5 days above 100. It's a VERY dry heat, not much snow in the winter. Only about 7" of precip. per year.

Tom

PeteRT
08-28-2010, 02:59 PM
7" a year, damn... i think it was the year before last, we got 90-something inches of just snow!

KTK00R/T
08-31-2010, 07:44 PM
It's truly amazing how many bugs my filter gets crammed full of behind the fog light opening.

thats where mine is for the KB.. behind the fog light. Just pop it out when I hit the track or cruise night.

PeteRT
09-01-2010, 02:57 AM
here's how it turned out:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/vortech/IMG_3294.jpg

PeteRT
09-01-2010, 04:17 AM
fit the braided hoses:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/vortech/IMG_3296.jpg

i might put some split tubing over the runs behind the fender. i don't like how it looks back there. needs to be invisible.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/vortech/IMG_3300.jpg


it's the long way around, but the best, least seen option. the cold supply will come through the frame. somewhere in it, i'll convert from braided hose to the 3/4 water hose. that other braided hose hanging out- needs an adapter to fit the exchanger. it just needs cut to size and connected.

i haven't decided yet if i want to run the return line off the exchanger through the other frame rail, or 180* it and send it down the passenger rail as well. whatever i do, somewhere on the truck the lines have to criss-cross. just have to decide where that happens. at this point, i think i should have bought a cooler with the in/out on the same side. the lines have to criss cross because i'm not putting any holes in my bed. the supply from the tank goes in the drivers side tie-down, and the return comes up the other. pics of whatever i figure out, probably this weekend.

pete

PeteRT
09-01-2010, 04:26 AM
eventually, i'll pull the heat/ac core out and the water supply will come from in the cab, through a nice bulkhead fitting on the firewall, maybe mount the ice tank in place of the 40 part of the rear seat. i duno.. LOL it aint even done yet and im planning how im going to re-do it. i kinda wanna drive this thing again yet this year... so, simple solutions win, this round.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/vortech/IMG_3297.jpg

pete

BluRT00
09-01-2010, 02:10 PM
Pics look awesome. :biggthumpup: You will have a shit ton of room to work behind the dash once the hvac junk is out. Just bolted my dash back in and I got a easy 2 ft long by 1 ft deep worth of room.

White Turbo
09-01-2010, 06:58 PM
I thought you were gonna put the water/ice tank in the bed?

PeteRT
09-02-2010, 12:15 AM
i am. it's going to end up centered i think.

PeteRT
09-02-2010, 12:17 AM
man, i'm glad i bought black fittings... i chewed one of them up pretty good with the wrench & vice. bought the black ones so i can fix them with a sharpie, lol. i love thinking ahead and knowing my capabilities. the 2nd one came out much better, still a little scuffed though.

pete

wyotech_cuda440
09-02-2010, 12:27 AM
man, i'm glad i bought black fittings... i chewed one of them up pretty good with the wrench & vice. bought the black ones so i can fix them with a sharpie, lol. i love thinking ahead and knowing my capabilities. the 2nd one came out much better, still a little scuffed though.

pete

Wrap the fitting in a leather welding glove before you put it in the vise- it's a bit ghetto but it works. BTW, these work awesome for getting the hose into the fitting- http://www.koultools.com/

SB440R/T
09-02-2010, 12:35 AM
Wrap the fitting in a leather welding glove before you put it in the vise- it's a bit ghetto but it works. BTW, these work awesome for getting the hose into the fitting- http://www.koultools.com/

Damn those are expensive, but wow would that make life much easier.

PeteRT
09-02-2010, 01:33 AM
i wrestled with getting the hose in those fittings for a while. bloody fingers, hose clamps to shrink the hose, etc...

ended up using a flathead to stuff the hose into the fitting, then just pushed and turned like hell till it bottomed out.

bfranzel
09-02-2010, 03:07 AM
i wrestled with getting the hose in those fittings for a while. bloody fingers, hose clamps to shrink the hose, etc...

ended up using a flathead to stuff the hose into the fitting, then just pushed and turned like hell till it bottomed out.

lol i heard that. gotta love it

BluRT00
09-02-2010, 01:50 PM
i wrestled with getting the hose in those fittings for a while. bloody fingers, hose clamps to shrink the hose, etc...

ended up using a flathead to stuff the hose into the fitting, then just pushed and turned like hell till it bottomed out.

Almost sounds like you were fighting with a virgin.

PeteRT
09-02-2010, 03:56 PM
hah, it does

PeteRT
09-03-2010, 11:12 PM
This weekend is IT, fellas... Wife is gone, no homework yet... It's DO or DIE in the garage all weekend! Pics to come later.

Pete

KTK00R/T
09-03-2010, 11:45 PM
This weekend is IT, fellas... Wife is gone, no homework yet... It's DO or DIE in the garage all weekend! Pics to come later.

Pete

Good Luck! I've got Sean tied up with tuning right now! Hope to be in Boost soon with those Slide-A-Links. :rockwoot:

PeteRT
09-04-2010, 02:56 AM
Oh yea- I forgot to follow up with you... I trust you are satisfied?
Pete

KTK00R/T
09-04-2010, 03:10 AM
Absolutely! Just wish I read the directions. I had to special order longer ubolt for the drop I have. So it's a bit high in the rear for now.

Can't wait to see the 60' with this kb.

PeteRT
09-04-2010, 03:35 AM
i guess they're not meant for a lowered truck, lol... can't win with drop hangars, or blocks. i can't believe i hung onto those things for 5 years and still had all the parts in one place. moved from NC to the inlaws in WI, to an apartment in WI, to a House.
pete

PeteRT
09-04-2010, 05:06 PM
It's tough to run 1" OD hose invisibly all the way around the truck, lol... need to pick up a couple more feet. Total needed is about 35. i ened up running the supply through the passenger rail, and the return through the drivers side rail. I've got a couple more 90* bends than i would like, but i couldn't bend the hose in the shapes i needed without kinking & I can't find a smooth 90* bend without getting $40 in fittings. We'll see what happens with that when i fire up the pump.

i ordered the silicone 90*'s for the air intake last night.. going to put a 90 bend right on the blower intake, then a stainless coupler, then another 90*, another coupler, then the filter (bringing the filter 180* from the intake of the blower). i think it might get a little floppy, so i think im going to interlock a tbolt on one of the couplers to the perpendicular blower discharge above. need to hold it tight to that to avoid it bouncing off the fender. that will have to get done next weekend after parts arrive.

After that- take some of it apart, clean up my jagged edges, apply paint where necessary, thread sealant & fire it up.

im a little worried about the intercooler core leaking... those dumbasses at the import shop that welded the BOV flange to the IC, when they drilled & tapped the holes, they drilled into the core slightly. messed up a couple of the air passage fins, but i think the water passages are fine. will have to run the pump for a while to see what happens. the last thing i need is a couple gallons of water in my motor. the thing that really pissed me off, is when i said something- their immediate response was "oh, ya that metal was pretty thick"... WTF?! ever heard of a drill stop? Then he offered to cut it open and replace the core, but after looking at the welding job they did on the flange, it would look like Total garbage when finished. The shop labor involved in that (that i wouldnt be paying), would outweigh the cost of the intercooler ($150), so im going to fight for a whole new one if i need it. easier for the shop, easier for my peace of mind. I'm never going back there after this issue is finished.

What's with the trades these days? Seems you cant get anything done without it being all fucked up. Maybe I should have given it to the craigslist guy i got a quote from... $275 to weld the flange on. I only paid $60 to the import shop, which in my eyes is reasonable IF they didn't fuck it up.


Well anyways... back to home depot for more hose........

Pete

PeteRT
09-05-2010, 01:03 AM
put a full day in the garage...

water circuit is now complete
switch and pump are wired

tomorrows list:

1- make some spacers for the tank & mount it to the bed
1.5- run the drain line and valve
2- put sealant on the threaded connections
2.5- double check everything
3- fill with water and cross my fingers!

SB440R/T
09-05-2010, 01:20 AM
No pictures?

ZeNDak99
09-05-2010, 01:23 AM
Looks really good brotha.

BluRT00
09-05-2010, 03:01 AM
put a full day in the garage...

water circuit is now complete
switch and pump are wired

tomorrows list:

1- make some spacers for the tank & mount it to the bed
1.5- run the drain line and valve
2- put sealant on the threaded connections
2.5- double check everything
3- fill with water and cross my fingers!

Good deal man! Hell I read your post this morning about busting ass on your R/T today. I decided to go back at it with mine, I need to take some pictures. I did snag a nice GPS window mount setup from Target. Took 5 mins to drill and bam its right where I want it. So thank you for the heads up.

PeteRT
09-05-2010, 03:53 AM
No pictures?

nah.. nothing major to see over the old ones. ill take some tomorrow night.
pete

PeteRT
09-05-2010, 03:54 AM
Looks really good brotha.

thanks rick. you next?
pete

PeteRT
09-05-2010, 03:55 AM
Good deal man! Hell I read your post this morning about busting ass on your R/T today. I decided to go back at it with mine, I need to take some pictures. I did snag a nice GPS window mount setup from Target. Took 5 mins to drill and bam its right where I want it. So thank you for the heads up.

glad i could help, x2!

PeteRT
09-05-2010, 06:31 PM
fuck me... you know what im asking santa for this year? my garage fully stocked with hardware. hose clamps, bolts, washers, nuts & all other consumables.

there is nothing i hate more than going all the way to home depot for $2.00 bullshit.

bah... off to the store and jimmy johns.

pete

PeteRT
09-05-2010, 09:02 PM
wife took the camera to dave matthews..


i hate dave matthews

bfranzel
09-05-2010, 11:04 PM
wife took the camera to dave matthews..


i hate dave matthews

ill second that!

PeteRT
09-05-2010, 11:25 PM
whew, break time...

Tank is mounted, bedrug is in, shit under the bed is cleaned up, w00t! used some door edge guards to make the cuts i made to the under-bed supports look presentable.

i had to pull the driveshaft to fuck around with the drain line. eventually, it comes out by the very back/driver side... like my truck is taking a piss. though, i think this makes the truck a girl, cuz it'll look like shes poppin a squat when i drain it, lol.

the tank is only held in with 3 bolts.. one of those fuckers i can't get a nut on without pulling the gas tank & i aint doing that right now. i can only brush it with one of my fingers. will have to wait for a while... LOL - good excuse to put a fuel cell in. just stuck a bolt in the hole. youd never notice.

i let the pump run for a good 20 mins. enough to make sure everything was working right. the bosch pump sounds like a GM fuel pump. very noticeable with the truck off, but fuck- i can't hear myself think with the truck running, so im sure it'll be fine.


best of all- the shit job the import shop did to my core seems to be holding. so far so good.

i put a LED tipped toggle switch in to run the pump.. holy my asshole is that thing bright. i don't want to light up the damn cabin, just a visual indication that the pump is on. as-is it'd be like driving with a flashlight in one eye. Will have to dot it with some model paint or something.

damn my garage is a mess.... going to have to clean up my tools with a broom again.

pete

PeteRT
09-08-2010, 03:42 AM
Here's this weekends progress:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/vortech/IMG_3335.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/vortech/IMG_3338.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/vortech/IMG_3337.jpg

holy zip ties batman, lol. will eventually do this up with something different. i bought some wrap that wouldnt wrap neatly, so i basically made a sandwich:
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/vortech/IMG_3339.jpg

i need another hose barb to run another couple of inches of drain line:
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/vortech/IMG_3343.jpg

the braiding on the line was just tight enough to not fit over the barb on the cooler... stripping back the outer layer provided just enough give to force it on. in the frame rail, you can kinda see where i went from -10 hose to 3/4 hose.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/vortech/IMG_3348.jpg

more zip ties on the supply, and a shot of where the return goes back to the bed:
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/vortech/IMG_3345.jpg

of course, this looks a lot better without the flash: i didn't like seeing the line in the fender so i covered them up:
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/vortech/IMG_3349.jpg

took care of the mismatch between the airhat and cooler:
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/vortech/IMG_3352.jpg

this is the drain line looking with my feet toward the roll pan. i bent over the heat shield and secured it with some zip ties:
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/vortech/IMG_3344.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/vortech/IMG_3350.jpg

That's it for now... the parts i need to fab up the filter/intake assembly should be here later this week. i should be on the road Sunday.

Pete

BluRT00
09-08-2010, 04:39 PM
Looks good Pete.:biggthumpup: Wonder how much weight it added to the truck? Think I am going to install my meth kit real soon once SCT is on.

PeteRT
09-09-2010, 03:39 AM
Good question. all totaled with water- probably in the neighborhood of 80lbs.
pete

KTK00R/T
09-09-2010, 06:41 PM
Good question. all totaled with water- probably in the neighborhood of 80lbs.
pete

Not Shabby.. This paperweight of a kb has added about that.

Duner
09-09-2010, 07:07 PM
Good question. all totaled with water- probably in the neighborhood of 80lbs.
pete

With the turbo/blower, A/W Intercooler, reservoir, lines, pump, rollbar, fire extinguisher. driveshaft loop and all the rest of the extra stuff that gets added - MSD, Boost-A-Pump, extra pumps, FMU, breathers, lines to and from all of that junk.... it's no wonder our trucks keep getting heavier and heavier.

PeteRT
09-10-2010, 03:50 AM
i figure its a good trade... by rule of thumb, if i added 80lbs, i'll be .08 slower. hopefully pumping ice water is enough to overcome that, and then some.

i'll take the hvac stuff out from under the dash to save some more... going to do that this winter to make room to get rid of the rest of the wiring under the hood.

pete

PeteRT
09-12-2010, 02:35 AM
Got my 90* silicone in, and the 3.5" stainless couplers. i cut about a 30* bend off the aluminum J-tube that i was using before the intercooler. after some trimming of both the 90*s and the filter, it all fits like a charm. the problem before was, a 90/90=180, the fender was in the way. i needed to bring the last 90 before the filter up a bit to clear.

if it looks tight, it is... there's about 1/2" clearance between the silicone and fender. i interlocked T-bolt clamps (perpendicular) to take some of the flop out of the assembly and hold it up. it's as sturdy as can be.

also- i repurposed part of the cruise control that affixes to the TB bracket.. just need some black vac line and i'm in business with that. im pretty happy with this, i just love when things i didn't intend line up and allow for some new ideas.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/vortech/IMG_3354.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/vortech/IMG_3356.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/vortech/IMG_3355.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/pete102580/vortech/IMG_3357.jpg