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Valiantjim
03-23-2008, 12:55 AM
After picking up a clean 99 RT Club Cab, red with 72K miles, I was glad to find this forum. Forums are a great innovation for the car hobby...I've been playing for 35 years but only got started online when I bought a 2004 GTO and then continued with my C5 Vette. The MOPAR faithful will be delighted to know I sold the Vette to buy the truck. The whole story revolves around my early A-body Valiant/Barracuda obsession that goes back to the early seventies. I've had dozens of them, including a 65 Barracuda A-Sedan SCCA Trans Am racer I converted to barely street legal status in the mid 70's. The Dak was purchased to serve as tow vehicle and parts runner for my latest project, a 66 Barracuda Trans Am replica track car.

So here's the question session, and please don't slay me for starting conversations over that may have been going on for the last 10 years...I've already played with the Search function. I live in Colorado at about 6000 ft altitude. You're probably aware that altitude sucks power at 3% per 1000 ft, so I've already lost 18% of what sea level folks enjoy. The plan is to drop in a 4" cast crank kit to salvage some bottom end torque that's needed for towing. Will the factory electronics support the change without going all haywire on me? I've already got the simple 180 thermostat, K&N filter and Jet2 going on and that's perked things up a bit. I figured the more aggressive module was fine here at altitude with the minor mods cause thin air supports ignition timing that would drive sea level tunes into detonation.

Second question: These electronic 518 trannies, what do they need to handle the increased torque and towing loads? This one already bothers me with its sliding lazy shifts...I swear I can feel the bands melting into the fluid just driving around. How did the motoring public get convinced that "smooth" shifts were a good thing?

Thanks in advance...

BTLFED R/T
03-23-2008, 01:05 AM
Well, I can say you bought the wrong vehicle if you want to do alot of towing. These trucks had a "buyback" from Chrysler for this very thing. Seems they don't tow what they were rated at. It has plenty of power to do so, the suspension however is another story. There are helper springs and airbags that do help out though.

I haven't built a motor myself, so I'll let someone else answer that. I would say, as long as it isn't too radical of a setup, you should be ok.

The 518/46re are basically junk, IMO. Beating on them or towing with them isn't going to make them last too long. Best bet is to have it rebuilt with some beefier parts.

Hope this helps, somewhat. Don't be afraid to ask anything, we were all new at this once too. :biggthumpup:

Valiantjim
03-23-2008, 01:17 AM
Thanks for the info. I kind of anticipated the less than ideal tow vehicle status but I am trying to keep things light, I'm not a truck fan cause I'm a corner burner. (Weight goes straight). I'm intending to use an aluminum Texas Roll-back trailer (1300#) and the car is targeted in construction to no more than 2800#, hopefully less. I'm gambling the combined 4100# won't be too taxing. Airbags are fine with me if necessary.

That being said, if it doesn't work out the investment was low and it's still a cool truck. I guess I'll be able to let folks know how it works out.

BTLFED R/T
03-23-2008, 01:25 AM
Thanks for the info. I kind of anticipated the less than ideal tow vehicle status but I am trying to keep things light, I'm not a truck fan cause I'm a corner burner. (Weight goes straight). I'm intending to use an aluminum Texas Roll-back trailer (1300#) and the car is targeted in construction to no more than 2800#, hopefully less. I'm gambling the combined 4100# won't be too taxing. Airbags are fine with me if necessary.

That being said, if it doesn't work out the investment was low and it's still a cool truck. I guess I'll be able to let folks know how it works out.

Oh, these trucks make good corner carvers when setup correctly. They are very fun.

And, welcome to the site! Stick around, there is plenty to learn! :biggthumpup:

bad360rt
03-23-2008, 01:37 AM
Welcome to the forum! :)

4" stroker setup is a good way to get some torque back. If you keep the cam mild, you'll have no problems running it on the pcm. I saw a guy at Cecil towing his 30's coupe with a Dakota R/T, didn't look like he had any problems with it. I'm not sure what he had done to the rear suspension tho, but as mentioned, you'll need some helper springs or airbags if you're gonna tow on a regular basis.

Trueblue R/T
03-23-2008, 01:39 AM
The stroker crank will work out just fine,,with a stock bore you will have a 402 lots of bottom end there.. put you a trans cooler on it and a mopar PCM..do all the things to the suspension that would be needed in any light truck and you should be fine

A corner carver very rare in mopar guys..In my opion what you have bought is the late 20th century cousin to cuda of old..with a few mods you would be suprised how these trucks will handle.. Our national meet always has a autox component on one of the days Used to own a super-7 not a kit the lotus real deal,, I say that and then remember lotus sold it as a semi kit..Anyway if memory serves me right it ran d-prouction at that time with the 1348 cosworth motor.. Made a few regional races back in the day,,we might of crossed paths at the western end of my roamings,,FT Sumner or some such.. Hell I might be saying hi to an old scca friend.. Think about coming to our national meet and showing all of us how to really turn corners,,you might just have fun..